Christmas Down South

Our time in Vero flies by. After a lovely and delicious Thanksgiving dinner with friends under swaying palms (accompanied, unfortunately, by voracious no-seeums) we are back at work on Exuberant.  Burt undertakes the huge task of refinishing the companionway of the boat.  That includes burning off years’ worth of varnish, removing the sliding hatch and accompanying hardware, sanding the teak down to bare wood, and applying ten coats of two-part varnish. Two weeks later the finished teak absolutely glows; the quality is worthy of a professional, but in the meantime, we also have a boat full of sanding dust and varnish fumes.  Cruising isn’t always a “paradise experience”.

With the boat reassembled and well provisioned, we make an overnight passage down the coast, arriving at Key Biscayne and No Name Harbor the following noon.  It is a Sunday, so we anchor outside the state park harbor as inside is pure chaos with locals vying for every square inch of anchoring room and salsa music blaring from impressive stereo systems. Trust me, you won’t hear any English spoken here.   

Skyline of Miami's South Beach as seen from the anchorage just outside No Name harbor

The next morning we motor inside as the last of the weekend revelers departs and score a prime anchoring position. 

No Name Harbor with only a few boats - at some times it seems you can walk across the harbor on all the boats.

We want to be inside as Burt needs to snorkel on the bottom of the boat and change out the zinc on the prop; this is the first time we have seen clear water with no current in ages. With the task complete we spend the remainder of our visit bicycling through the park and the lush, upscale community of Key Biscayne. And as the harbor begins to fill with more boats and swing room becomes minimal, we are anxious to get underway before there is an unfortunate crunch of fiberglass hulls.

It is cool and breezy with another cold front descending upon us, but that makes for excellent sailing further down the Keys.   

Burt is bundled up for the trip into the Keys - it has been a surprisingly cool winter-not what you would expect for South Florida weather

We leave No Name Harbor at first light, get bounced a bit as we head out into Hawk Channel, but then have a memorable sail that makes the Keys so special. Once in the lee of the islands, the water goes flat, the wind gusts into the mid-20’s, and we are making close to 8 knots of speed over clear turquoise water on a beam reach.  It is utterly heavenly! 70 nautical miles later we drop anchor in the protection of Long Key, have a leisurely grilled dinner, and watch a spectacular sunset that is typical of the Keys. 

Sunset off Long Key - and yes, I think I saw a green flash despite the clouds at the horizon

The next day it is an easy motor sail the remainder of the way to Boot Key Harbor on Marathon Key.  We pick up a mooring ball in the crowded harbor and are pleased we have arrived before all 226 spaces have been taken, as this is a very popular location for cruisers.

We will be in Marathon for over a month. And what will keep us here so long?  Burt still has a few maintenance tasks before we feel prepared to head to the Bahamas. I have a sewing project, covering some cushions in the cockpit, and the material awaits me in the mail room.  We try to find time each day for a fun activity.  Sometimes we dinghy to Sombrero Beach, a ten minute ride in the dinghy through mangrove lined channels and past some of the lovely homes in the Sombrero neighborhood.   

A portion of Sombrero Beach which is actually a city park

Other times we get a bit more exercise by riding our bikes nine miles out and back along Highway 1 and on the old Seven Mile Bridge to Pigeon Key, home to Henry Flagler’s work camp that supported the construction of the original bridge and now is an historical landmark. 

The end of the bike path to Pigeon Key, seen in the background

And why you can't go any further along the bridge, although this section has been used in movie sets

Along the way we frequently stop to see what critters inhabit the clear waters below.  On our first trip out we see three sharks, the largest being around 7 feet long, one huge spotted eagle ray, several barracuda, many tarpon, an assortment of tropical fish, and two iguanas resting on the bridge abutment. 

One of the iguanas we saw, now considered like squirrels in the Key - there is actually an abatement program for ones which become nuisances

When we return to our dinghy, two manatees are lollygagging near the dinghy dock. Not all the wild life in the Keys is human! We often gather with friends who are passing through this harbor or plan to spend their entire winter here. We are beginning to think the music scene in Marathon is surpassing that of Key West.  Many of the musicians who play at the local venues reside on boats in the harbor.  Eric Stone (of the Eric Stone Band, made famous by links to Latts and Atts ((now Cruising Outpost)) magazine and appearances at many national boat shows) owns a waterfront restaurant and features talent from all over the country. Several other establishments have music almost all nights of the week, so we have plenty to choose from.

But it is also the Christmas season and, while different from a northern Christmas, we still get into the spirit.  Our boat is decorated with solar powered LED lights on the exterior, and we have a small lit Christmas tree in the salon. One evening we attend a performance of the Messiah at a local church with community wide talent participating – it is surprisingly professional - and we bike back to the dinghy in the dark, admiring all the Christmas lights in the nearby park. Another evening we are invited to a friend’s boat for a holiday party and a prime view of the Boot Key Harbor Lighted Boat Parade. 

Lots of fun in the boat parade

And finally, friends with a car drive us to the local Catholic Church which has transformed their prayer garden into a Christmas fantasy – a gift to the greater community. Unlike most light displays, this is a lovely and extensive tropical garden with winding pathways and water features, artistically enhanced by millions of lights – breath-taking!

The fairy tale scene at San Paulo Church's garden

An arch of blue lights leads into another hidden garden

Red lights are chosen to highlight this red hued croton

We will remain in Marathon until mid-January and the next appropriate weather window to sail to the Bahamas. In less than a week, both of our sons and their families will be joining us for a week in a house we rented in the Sombrero neighborhood.  When you are always on the move in far flung locales, it is hard to gather family together, so we are especially looking forward to this time to reconnect and to show our grandchildren the wonders of this world which we explore.

So, in the spirit of the season, we want to wish all of you a very Merry Christmas and all the best in the coming year! 

From the magical gardens of San Paulo, we wish you a Merry Christmas