Puttering Through Pipe Creek

There is one more section of the northern Exumas that we have yet to explore, so after provisioning and doing laundry we anchor off Pipe Cay for a number of nights.  At times we are alone, but other times have a few boats for company.  Our daily routine tends to be boat chores and maintenance in the morning and exploration in the afternoon.  And this area has much to offer.  We are no longer in the park, but rather just south of its boarders, so there is more development and fishing and lobstering is allowed.  Pipe Cay, Compass Cay, and a few other smaller cays provide the western boundary for the Pipe Creek area while Joe, Thomas and Over Yonder Cays provide eastern protection.  In the middle are an array of tidal channels, tiny cays, and sand bores; it’s nirvana for dinghy exploration and “eye candy photography” with colors of the water, sky, and land forms defying description.

As mentioned, the area is more developed than in the park, and only two cays allow access ashore to cruisers.  Thomas Cay sports the Pipe Creek Yacht Club, a conglomeration of found treasures and a few beach chairs arranged on a crescent beach.  It is a gathering place for the few boats who brave the winding channels and coral heads to actually anchor in the Creek.  

The ritzy Pipe Creek Yacht Club

From the yacht club, a trail leads to the eastern shore and a spectacular overlook on to Exuma Sound.   

Burt surveys Exuma Sound from the cliff on Thomas Cay

We find pockets in the rocks that are shell nurseries.  Each of the living shells are less than ½ inch in size and a perfect replica of what one usually finds on the beach.   

The sea shell nursery

On Pipe Cay one is welcome to wander among the ruins of the old US Navy DECCA station.  Not much remains except a pier and barracks but we are told that the station was used in World War II for some sort of navigational radio work. 

The private Cays are more impressive and we motor along them, investigating how the other half lives.  These are vacation homes for very wealthy Bahamians and foreigners, and all are beautifully maintained.  Over Yonder Cay is the home of an American mathematician who developed an algorithm used in Wall Street trading.  He now gets a royalty from each trade which puts him in the gazillionaire category. His one bedroom home of many thousand square feet is atop the island and is surrounded by a number of large villas, interspersed with manicured beaches, along the shore for his guests and children.  His private harbor can handle island freighters and all power on the cay is provided by three industrial sized windmills and a huge array of solar panels.  

Over Yonder Cay - owner's villa on left, smaller villa right center and solar array in between

On a slightly smaller scale but perhaps more attractive, we find Little Pipe Cay.  It has several more moderately sized Bahamian style villas, more manicured beaches sporting teak chaises and umbrellas, a lodge, docking for mega-yacht sized boats, staff housing, and a charming stone chapel for the resident staff.  It is a gem and, now, up for sale at the reduced price of $74 million.  We won’t be calling the realtor, but it seems reasonable compared to other opportunities we have witnessed for spending your spare change. 

The more tasteful Little Pipe Cay

Other cays have dockage with traditional styled Bahamian homes and more beautiful beaches.

The real joy of exploring Pipe Creek is on the water.  The sand bores wind between deep blue channels and turquoise sand shallows.  Take a walk on a bore and you in on the softest, most powdery pure sand you could ever find.  One bore protects a sliver of water in which we find two local boats anchored – from a distance you would think they were aground on the sand.   

Spectacular sand bores in Pipe Creek

And more sand bores

Near the cuts to Exuma Sound, where the currents run swift, there are patch reefs worthy of snorkeling, but it’s a bit too cool and breezy to entice us in the water so we look via a viewing bucket to see colorful soft corals, brain corals galore, and an assortment of tropical fish.  A huge eagle ray, at least six feet across, swims along with our dinghy.  

Our last day in this area is spent at Compass Cay.  This cay is home to a moderate sized marina and a few rental villas, but is open to non-guests for a small fee.  Its primary attraction is the school of resident nurse sharks.  This is my opportunity to confront one of my deepest fears by touching and wading with the sharks.  At high tide the sharks swim on to a dock that is about a foot below the water surface.  There they lay resting and hoping for a little human attention.  We tentatively walk down the steps and reach out to scratch them on the top of their heads.  They seem to like it and others swim up for some “petting”.  Of course, the skeptic in me is asking what else they are after – I doubt anyone really knows what is going through the minds of these beady eyed sharks.   

Do we look relaxed while petting the sharks?

Later in the day a tour group comes in and their guides chum the water while they stand amidst the feeding frenzy. 

The feeding frenzy

The sharks apparently have no taste for human flesh but their feeding activity is amazing.  Nurse sharks don’t bite their food; rather they rapidly suck it in with a loud pffft sound and a spray of water. I finally get in the water with the now well fed sharks and they lazily swim around me.  Burt records all on video for posterity and I exit the water with elevated blood pressure.

Beside the sharks there is excellent hiking on the cay.  We take a 2 ½ mile hike to the northern end, sometimes along a rocky ridge and other times along untouched beaches.  

The Exuma Sound coast of Compass Cay

The view along the eastern coast of Compass Cay

 Our destination is Rachel’s Bubble Bath, a formation that allows surf from Exuma Sound to crash over a rock ledge at high tide and bubble into a lagoon. Since we have seen no one on the trail, we assume we will be alone at Rachel’s and plan to change into swimsuits once there.  But, alas, we arrive to see four others enjoying the Bubble Bath, and by the time we find a suitable changing place, the tide is down and the bubbles gone.   

Rachel's Bubble Bath with just a little surf left

All is not lost, though, as the two couples offer to give us a dinghy ride back to the marina, a real blessing for me as my knee is taking a toll from the rough terrain. After a cheeseburger in paradise at the marina, overlooking the ever present sharks, we spend a relaxing afternoon on a deserted mile long crescent beach of pure sand.

Where do you find such a beautiful beach all to yourself?

The weather starts to turn, and we begin to hear rumors on the VHF radio that the mail/supply boat will be coming into the area shortly so we make a beeline back to Staniel Cay in the hopes of scoring fresh produce and other necessities.  Here in the Bahamas your plans are controlled by weather and availability of food, something you never thought of when living ashore. 

An oncoming squall chases us back to Exuberant

Pokin' Through the Park

We are back to being a double handed sail boat and set our sights north to parts of the Exuma Land and Sea Park we have yet to explore.  The park has four main areas with mooring fields.  All areas of the park must conform to their strict no catch/no take rules, but about half of the Cays are still privately owned.  So far, we have only visited the section near the headquarters.  Our first stop, on this trip, is Cambridge Cay.  The entrance is tricky and shallow so we wait for a rising tide west of Bell Island, a private island owned by an Arabian sheik. On top of several of the hills are large villas, and the surrounding beaches have lovely tiki huts and meticulous landscaping.  There is a large yacht basin under construction housing a mega-yacht, and we see helicopters and sea planes coming and going. It stretches the imagination….

Shortly we move on to an anchorage on the southwest tip of Little Hall Pond Cay.  As we turn the corner we find a beautiful beach replete with four teak chaises and a matching beach umbrella.  It dawns on us that we have just anchored off Johnny Depp’s private beach.  

Not a bad hangout for a pirate

 It is late afternoon when someone from the Cay comes around to ask how long we plan to stay and if we wouldn’t consider moving to the Cambridge Cay mooring field.  We chose this anchorage for its proximity to a snorkeling spot, and it is too late in the day to safely move so we agree we will depart the next morning.  Later that evening, a sea plane arrives near us and as we leave the next morning, Johnny’s personal mega yacht moves into our spot – apparently we were occupying our favorite pirate’s favorite anchorage.

Cambridge Cay is a protected anchorage for just about any wind direction so we settle in for four days with only a few other boats.  

Beautiful Cambridge anchorage

 There are beautiful beaches on both the east and west sides of the Cay, 

Bell Rock off east side of Cambridge Cay

and one morning we join another couple to volunteer to clean up the flotsam that has accumulated over the hurricane season along one of the eastern beaches. We make a good dent in the debris which includes all sorts of plastics – water bottles, fuel and oil containers, fishing nets, building materials, and the ever present flip flops.  Where does it all come from? Perhaps cruise ships dumping trash hundreds of miles off shore or refuse barges from east coast cities in the US.  It is truly sad to see such pristine islands defaced by trash.  We also spend time snorkeling the nearby reefs.  One site, the Sea Aquarium, is probably the most beautiful section of coral we have ever seen.  The fish are especially varied and tame, and the Sergeant Majors are so friendly you find yourself swatting them away like mosquitoes.  In the anchorage we see large Eagle Rays performing soaring jumps out of the water. By our last night there, we have six boats and where that many boat gather, there shall be a Happy Hour.  In this case, we join together at low tide on a sand bar for drinks and munchies – a mixed group of Americans, Canadians, and one chap from New Zealand. 

 

The next day we leave for Shroud Cay at the north end of the Park.  We are joined by some friends we initially met in Melbourne, FL.  It is a windless day, something unusual for the Exumas, and we motor in water 20 feet deep and so clear that you can see every ripple in the sand – it is mesmerizing. We anchor off the Cay and find the mooring field is full of boats cruising together – their common feature is that all the boats have children aboard.  This is not unusual as cruising families are always looking for the “kid boats” for company.  The anchorage is full of activity – paddle boards, dinghies pulling inner tubes, kayaks, and kids jumping off boats.  We are not sure who is having the most fun, the kids or their equally enthusiastic parents, and again, it is a multi-national group consisting of Americans, Candians, and French.  The next morning at a rising tide we are joined by our friends, and the two dinghies take off for a mangrove creek at the north end of the island. 

Mangrove interior

View over the mangrove creeks

Winding through the narrow, shallow, and clear water, we first stop at an access point to an eastern shore beach.  We walk through thick muck and then over a barrier sand dune to the water.  Again, trash is everywhere, but if one can ignore that, it is postcard beautiful. We then head to an actual opening on to Exuma Sound and the location of Camp Driftwood.  The cut has deposited bars of exquisitely soft sand. 

Cut near Camp Driftwood

 A short hike up a nearby hill reveals Camp Driftwood.  Back in the 1960’s a cruiser who was somewhat of a hermit built a “residence” here of driftwood and other flotsam found on the beach, anchoring his boat just inside the opening.  In the 1980’s the US DEA used this spot to observe drug kingpin Carlos Lehder’s activities on nearby Normans Island.  Now nothing remains but a spectacular view over the adjacent Cays and waters. 

View from the top of Camp Driftwood

Again we move on to Hawksbill Cay, finding the anchorage totally deserted. 

One of the pocket beaches on the west side of Hawksbill Cay

Some describe this Cay as being the most beautiful in the Bahamas.   

Interior of Hawksbill Cay

Five miles long, its shoreline features rocky points sheltering pristine powdery beaches on the western side and long, inaccessible crescent beaches on the east shore.   

Eastern shore of Hawksbill Cay

Surf pounds the eastern shore

The winds have picked up so we take several wet dinghy rides to explore the beaches and inlets, and hike the interior to find ruins of a loyalist settlement and some views over the eastern shore. The loyalists hailed from the Carolinas and  attempted to support themselves in this lonely outpost in the late 1700's. All that remains are a few winding walls and stone  piles. 

The Loyalist ruins in the interior of Hawksbill Cay

Exploring the park has been an enjoyable experience.  We have seen the Exumas as they existed prior to any development with plentiful fish, healthy coral, and beaches with no footprints other than one’s own.  There is no infrastructure here to speak of – no internet or phone service, no restaurants or grocery stores, no water, fuel or garbage disposal available.  It requires total self-sufficiency.

A Week at Warderick Wells

Bryan and Beth arrive on a little six seat, two prop airplane after a bit of a white knuckled flight through several squalls. 

One of the large planes of Flamingo Air

They are happy to be on solid ground, and we are delighted to have them with us for a week in the Exumas.  We have the boat at a dock to facilitate moving them and the necessary provisions on for a week of cruising. In the clear water below the boat we can see several large eagle rays along with the ever present nurse sharks.  

Exuberant docked at Staniel Cay Yacht Club - a real luxury for us!

 A quick snorkel at the Thunderball Grotto gives our guests a taste of what is to come.  We also take Beth and Bryan to see the famous swimming pigs. 

This guy was REAL interested in Beth until he found out all she had were orange peels

The welcome dinner is at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club, followed by a little time at the annual Pirate Party.  Others have gone all out in pirate garb, and we are furiously checking the crowd for Johnny Depp.  Many look like Johnny, but sadly, the real thing has not made an appearance.  It’s time to crash in bed after a long day – our guests left their home at 3 am.

The next morning we leave Staniel Cay weaving our way through the many super yachts that have shown up for the holidays, including Steven Speilburg’s 280 foot yacht and another just a fuzz shorter that even has a helicopter on board.  

For some reason they didn't invite us aboard Spielburg's yacht  :(

 A 25 mile motor sail brings us to Warderick Wells, the headquarters of the Exuma Land and Sea Park.  We have arranged to take a mooring ball in a sheltered location as we will have a strong cold front pass through during the week.  Upon arrival, we wind our way through a narrow deep water channel between sand flats to our assigned mooring. 

A windy day at the Warderick Wells anchorage

The park has minimal facilities – no fresh water, garbage disposal, fuel, or provisions, so we need to be totally self-sufficient. The only buildings on the property are the headquarter office, a home for the Park Warden (head ranger) and a small contingent of the Bahamas Defense Force, and a few small outbuildings which we check out in short order.  It is tradition that on their first visit to Warderick Wells cruisers take a piece of driftwood with their boat’s name carved on it and place it atop the highest hill in the park – such treasurers are the only things allowed to be left in the park.  In short order we hike to the top of Boo Boo Hill to leave our contribution in the commemorative pile of driftwood.   

Hikers at the top of Boo Boo Hill

Our presence commemorated in the Park

We see many other plaques from previous visitors dating back a number of years, and we recognize many of the boat names.  And, why is this location named Boo Boo Hill?  Legend has it that a boat was wrecked off the shore of the cay many years ago, and the ghosts of the lost passengers still haunt this location.  We have our little ceremony and then pause to survey the spectacular views from the heights before a hike down to the equally spectacular Boo Boo Beach.

Our days in the park are spent snorkeling, hiking, and exploring by dinghy. The reefs sport colorful corals and a variety of fish. We have an opportunity to swim with four huge spotted eagle rays. At one point a 3 foot nurse shark starts swimming with us, curiously glaring at us with beady eyes.  Beth and I decide sitting on a nearby beach sounds like a good alternative to snorkeling.  And at another site, Beth sees a much larger nurse shark and sets a speed record for climbing the dinghy’s narrow boarding ladder with her fins still on.  We still haven’t figured out how that could be accomplished.  We have a wreck of a burned out boat just below our mooring and even that has some impressive fish making it home. Our hiking takes us along paths running through arid landscapes and palm groves stunted by the ever present winds.   

The cratered limestone has sharp ridges interspersed with pockets of sand; exquisite beaches with their powder soft sand are tucked in between cliffs and rocky coastline. One section of the east coast has caves and blow holes carved into the rock by the wave action.  We enjoy hearing the roar of the waves within these structures and seeing the occasional bursts of mist exploding from the blow holes.  

Crashing waves on Exuma Sound coast

New Year’s Eve is upon us and with it, an invitation from the Park Warden to a party on the beach. Each boat is to supply a snack and its own beverage.  We proceed to the beach at sunset to find that the Warden and his wife, along with several of the members of the Defense Force, have cook an entire meal to share with the cruisers, giving us the opportunity to sample some genuine Bahamian dishes such as macaroni and cheese and peas and rice.  Hospitality such as this is not uncommon in the Bahamas, and we enjoy chatting with our hosts, especially with the Warden’s nine year old daughter who is visiting from Nassau for the holiday break.  The party disperses long before midnight as all the activity and fresh air is taking its toll.

Our last full day at the park is spent weathering a strong cold front.  The wind is howling and temperatures have dropped to the point that swimming is no longer inviting.  We are seeing the coldest temperatures we have had since northern Florida, but we are safe and comfortable in the boat.  In some parts of Florida temps have dropped into the 20’s.  Late afternoon everyone feels the need to get off the boat, so we launch the dinghy for a very wet and wild trip to the nearby shore and one last hike – hot showers are a necessity upon returning to the boat.

Our week is over and we have a delightful return sail to Staniel Cay.   An early morning dinghy ride takes Beth and Bryan back to the airport.  We wade into shore with their luggage and walk a few hundred yards to the airport terminal which is actually just a gazebo.   

The ticket agent shows up in a golf cart and processes the passengers via cell phone.  The plane arrives and everyone helps the pilot pack the luggage in the small hold. This certainly isn’t JFK!