Off to the Bahamas

In a winter marked by continual cold fronts, we are fortunate to have a three day weather window to make our way well into the Bahamas.  A good sized contingent leaves Marathon in the morning, motorsailing eastward in Hawk Channel before cutting through the reef and into the Gulf Stream near Islamorada. We have a light north wind but it hasn’t kicked up waves in the deep water and all seems to be going fine until we, the lead boat, encounter a strange floating object.   

Two views of the refugee boat - notice the construction from styrofoam, sticks, and a tarp

Upon approach we realize it is a deserted homemade boat about 15 feet long, constructed of blocks of Styrofoam, sticks, and a silver tarp.  There is a pile of “stuff” in the center of the boat that is difficult to identify but may include a rudimentary motor.  We call the Coast Guard, give them the location and a description. We take some pictures and agree to send them to the Coast Guard when we get internet.  It is safe to say, this is a Cuban refugee boat, one of many that have come across in recent days, all due to the coming changes in US/Cuban relations. We happily find no bodies, and while there is certainly a story behind this as the Coast Guard says it is part of an ongoing investigation, we will probably never know the outcome. But seeing the extent that people will go for freedom, it gives us a new appreciation of our country.

After getting permission from the Coast Guard to leave the refugee boat, we have an uneventful night crossing over to the Great Bahama Banks, that is, if you ignore dodging a number of freighters. In our little flotilla are several novice boats, and they are getting a bit cocky about their Gulf Stream experience.  It’s been a breeze this time, but who knows what future crossings will be like. We arrive at the southeast corner of the Berry Islands mid-afternoon, drop the anchor, and have a relaxing dinner while watching our first Bahamian sunset.  

An amazing sunset welcomes us to the Bahamas - our friends on Magnolia are approaching the anchorage

The next day we sail into Nassau, easily clear immigration and customs, and run a few errands at the nearby shopping center.  

The lighthouse greets us at the entrance to Nassau Harbor

That evening we join some cruising friends for dinner at a Chinese restaurant just down the street - not the cuisine one might expect in the Bahamas, but an outstanding meal nevertheless. 

Typically we would stay a bit longer in Nassau as it is our last bastion of first world type amenities that we will see in a while, but we have decided to get out of Dodge fast as the crime situation in Nassau is deteriorating with the State Department even putting out travel warnings for the area. Another front is descending on us with strong winds so we travel only about five miles to the mostly uninhabited Rose Island, anchoring there in the protection of the shoreline and an outlying reef.  It blows like stink.

Rose Island with threatening skies in the background

The next day we make the 40 nautical mile crossing over to the Exumas, anchoring off Hawksbill Cay in the Exuma Land and Sea Park, part of the Bahamian national park system.  The contrast to Nassau is striking.  The Cay is uninhabited with the western shore dotted with pristine sand beaches interspersed between rocky outcroppings. 

Pristine Hawksbill Cay almost all to our selves

And in contrast to Nassau, the Park offers few amenities – we have no internet or access to garbage disposal.  For boats without a watermaker, there is no fresh water available either. We are in the company of two other boats, and they join us for happy hour and the sunset on Exuberant – we all rejoice in our arrival to the Exumas.  

But, another front is on its way, so we make a beeline down to Warderick Wells, also a part of the Park.  When strong fronts come into the Bahamas, they are accompanied by west winds.  Since most of the anchorages only give shelter from easterly trades, finding protection from the west is always a challenge.  Warderick Wells is one such area with all around protection and even well maintained mooring balls. We pass our time here hiking, snorkeling, and doing the ever present boat chores, this time making repairs on one of the heads and the dinghy outboard. The setting is spectacular with rays and sharks swimming past our boat and large sand bores uncovering at low tides. 

Phenomenal array of blues looking out from Staniel Cay

A curly tail lizard suns on the rocks at Staniel - its companion actually came up and nipped at my toes

And, it blows like stink. It is a delightful place, but with the passing of the front we decide to leave for Staniel Cay where we hear the supply boat will be delivering a fresh shipment of the ever important fruits and vegetables.  We anchor in the north corner of Big Majors Spot and dinghy into the settlement and Isles General Store.  When we arrive at the store, the lack of dinghies at the dock leaves us suspicious and our concerns are validated when we are told that this week the freighter will not be coming in.  Our fresh fruits and vegetables become some worn out looking apples, a head of cabbage, and one of cauliflower – all which will have to last us another week. 

An unusually calm day at Staniel Cay making an easy trip into the market - if only they had vegies

 

Meanwhile, another front is coming through but it will be weak so we weather the west winds that never exceed 10 knots at the exposed anchorage and spend our time snorkeling the Thunderball Grotto, the site of the filming of the James Bond thriller Thunderball and an oasis of friendly tropical fish and healthy coral, all encased within an island cave. While snorkeling the grotto, I find an I-phone in a waterproof case on the bottom.  We take it into the recently expanded Staniel Cay Yacht Club which is a combination marina and all inclusive resort that is cruiser friendly, hoping to find its owner.  While splurging on “linner” (combination of lunch and dinner) at the bar, a man walks in who closely resembles the picture of the individual on the wallpaper of the phone.  We ask if he has lost his phone and are delighted to find he and his wife are the owners.  They were filming their snorkel through the grotto when they dropped the phone and gave up any hope of ever finding it.  After eating, we take our drinks out on a patio and are joined by several couples vacationing at the resort.  They are full of questions about our lifestyle and journey, but the one that really peaks our interest is whether the “green flash” actually exists and whether we have ever seen one.  With a cloudless view to the west, unobstructed by land, they are not all that uncommon. And, that evening we experience another one.  We hope our new friends also witness it.

Another series of strong fronts is approaching so we scurry north to the Park and the protected mooring field at Cambridge Cay.  Moorings will be in demand for the next week so we feel fortunate to be settled in a secure place, albeit one again without internet or any other amenities. We will remain here for a week while fronts interspersed with an occasional calm day make their way through.  Some days are overcast with west winds approaching 30 knots while other days are pleasant and sunny.   

Bell Rock on the ocean side of Cambridge Cay

Bell Rock and the ocean beach from a hike along the cliffs

The beach on one of the few days without crashing waves

Even our weather guru is saying this is one of the most unsettled periods of weather he has ever seen in the Bahamas.  On the calm days we hike the nearby Cay and snorkel a series of lovely reefs, encountering many varieties of tropical fish, including some very pesky sergeant majors begging for a hand out.  On one reef, the dead elk horn corals we witnessed several years ago are beginning to regenerate which is a hopeful sign. One evening we organize a Happy Hour at a sand island that bares at low tide.  The occupants of over 15 boats in the mooring field and nearby anchorage attend.  It is an interesting assortment of cruisers with circumnavigators to first timers and a variety of nationalities including Americans, Canadians, Germans, and a delightful French family.  We hear a plethora of languages spoken. 

A memorable happy hour at Cambridge Cay

Looking in the distance we see islands owned by the Aga Khan, Johnny Depp, and Luke Perry, but our crew of cruisers may be the most fortunate of all to enjoy a special evening like this. 

Sunset as one of many fronts passes through

And between the pleasant times at Cambridge, it blows like stink.

So our message to those of you in the northlands – please keep your fronts to yourselves; they are keeping us in isolated places and curtailing much of our exploration of the Exumas!   

Hanging Out in Marathon

We have been in Marathon for over a month, but the time seems to have flown by.  Mooring field neighbors observe that we are never on the boat.  With great biking and accessible beaches during the day and a remarkable music scene during the evenings, it is probably an accurate observation. And we are enjoying a tropical climate that propagates a remarkable variety of wildlife.  Pelicans amuse us with their antics, 

Pelicans with interesting reflections in the water

and Ibis graze in the nearby park. Iguanas are proliferating everywhere, to the point there is actually an eradication program to downsize the population.  Dolphins swim in our bow wakes, and the canal into the mooring field dinghy dock has become home to a mother and baby manatee. 

The mother and baby manatees hanging out near the fresh water hose

Some say manatees are beautiful, but I think interesting is a better description of these docile mammals

The high point of our stay in Marathon is the visit of both of our sons and their families.  We found a rental house within dinghy and biking distance of our boat, so accommodations are nothing but plush for our guests. With a pool in the back yard, there is plenty of splashing for both young and old. Baby Isabella took her first swim with a little apprehension at first. 

Isabella seems a little unsure of herself the first day in the pool.

We spent several days with the entire crew sailing the boat, either within Hawk Channel or out to the reef for some snorkeling and swimming, 

Everyone got into swimming and snorkeling at the reef although, if there was an audio feed, you would see that Isabella DID NOT LIKE HER LIFEJACKET!!!

But playing in the cockpit while under sail was a totally different experience

and we enjoyed playing in the sand at beaches near the rental house or at Bahia Honda, a state park on the other end of the Seven Mile Bridge. We even hauled everyone down to Key West for some touring and sunset at Mallory Square with its plethora of street performers.

The highlight of the family’s visit was a day spent at the Dolphin Research Center.  This is a small, low-key research facility just outside Marathon and is nothing like amusement parks such as Sea World.  The dolphins (and some seals) are kept in natural pens that are part of Florida Bay.  The few visitors are free to walk between all the pens.  At times, trainers are working with some of the dolphins 

Several trainers are working simultaneously in one pool

The affection between trainer and trainee is readily apparent

while elsewhere guests have opportunities to interact with the dolphins, and in still other areas, researchers are studying dolphin communication and social development. The staff is very friendly and willingly takes time to describe what they are doing and answer any questions. During our visit grandsons Will and Daniel and their Dad took part in a 45 minute session titled “Play with the Dolphins” where they had the opportunity touch a dolphin, give it commands to do certain behaviors, and play “retrieve” with several of the dolphins.  At the end, the dolphins brought each child a gift of a pebble and a mangrove leaf.   

Everyone gets a chance to pet a dolphin

Will's smile is proof that this was a very special day

While many believe these behaviors are just a result of a reward system, in reality, many of the dolphins don’t even want their food rewards; rather, they are truly playful animals and enjoy interacting with humans. But for me, the special moments were sitting quietly by one of the pools and having one or more dolphins actually seek me out. They will vocalize to the point of engaging you in a conversation. Their intelligence and social skills make dolphins exceptionally interesting animals, and the experience leaves us appreciating even more our encounters with them in the wild.

So…the family has left, the boat has been reprovisioned, and we are saying our “goodbyes” to our many cruising friends who will spend their entire winter here in Marathon. It is difficult to leave such a delightful harbor, but it appears we will have a nice weather window to depart for the Bahamas, and a good weather window is just something you don’t pass up.