M is for May; M is for Maintenance

The past 30 days haven’t been too exciting from a sailing point of view.  This is the month where we take care of all the things that we have let slide over the past year.  We are in a lovely marina/boatyard, Herrington Harbor North, which is truly state of the art. 

View of one of the launch wells.  We were hauled and relaunched with a 50 ton lift.

If you had time to enjoy the amenities you could lounge at the pool and hot tub that has a bar on weekends and overlooks the docks and distant vistas to the Chesapeake Bay.   

Swimming pool and hot tub on an overcast weekday.

Entrance to pool area - showers and laundry are in nearby buildings.

Outdoor bar and grill building by the pool

 

You could stroll along the landscaped and winding walking trails that connect the docks and wander through bird infested wetlands.   

Nature trails with interpretative signage throughout the facility.

Wet lands along the trails where the birds get pretty raucous in the mornings.

You could visit the restored historic village on the grounds. You could sit on a patio and enjoy morning coffee.  You could sip sundowners on another shaded and landscaped patio overlooking the Bay.   

One of several patios overlooking the harbor

You could participate in Saturday night outdoor movies, Sunday morning water aerobics, and various talks by outside resources on the ecology of the Chesapeake. We, on the other hand, are doing none of the above.  Instead, we are availing ourselves of the large on site West Marine store, canvas, electrical, and mechanical contractors (all on site), and a nearby hardware store. Annapolis is a half hour drive and source of extensive supplies and provisioning. Herrington Harbor North calls itself an Eco-lifestyle Resort Marina, but we call it a great stop for a month of maintenance. 

So our month has been spent cleaning everything imaginable, polishing stainless and fiberglass, refinishing exterior wood, varnishing interior wood, doing routine maintenance on the engine and generator, emptying, cleaning, and inventorying all interior storage areas, installing a backup starting system (our key start has failed several times – not a comfortable feeling), steam cleaning upholstery and rugs, removing all the exterior canvas to clean for mildew and re-water proof, and washing everything that could possibly go into a washing machine.  Additionally, we are having new cushions made for the cockpit, shower grates in both heads professionally refinished, and the starter rebuilt. Yes, the cruising lifestyle is not a twelve month vacation.  We are tired and sore, but only a few small jobs remain before we can cast off. And, Exuberant is sparkly again.  

During our stop at Herrington Harbor North, we also took two weeks to head back to Ohio and Wisconsin.  This is our annual maintenance stop for the bodies where we cram a year’s worth of doctor and dentist visits into a few frantic days.  We spend time with family and friends in Ohio, and then head to Wisconsin for a long weekend to visit our son and daughter-in-law and our two grandsons who keep us entertained the entire time. Enterprise will be surprised when they read the odometer on our rental car.

A while back, one of the readers of this blog requested that I write on what works and what does not. You non-techies or non-boaters may want to skip this section. When we purchased Exuberant, it was basically, systems-wise, an empty shell.  With the exception of the engine and generator, almost everything has been changed out.  And, speaking of generators, many cruisers opt not to have a diesel generator, but instead use portable Honda generators which they swear by. As with so many options, it is a matter of taste and preference. For the most part, we are happy with the choices we have made.

Electrical Systems

Much of this has been updated to meet ABYC standards. The Vectron multistage battery charger does not meet our expectations and once had to be replaced under warranty with great hassle. We installed a separate Xantrex inverter this past year and have been very happy with the results although we don’t have large AC loads.  Our 2009 600 amp house battery bank of Lifeline AGM batteries is functionally about 400 amps as we lost capacity due to improper charging in the beginning. We have gotten smarter now and are getting along very well with our batteries.  The starter battery was replaced about a year ago and the separate battery that powers the windless and furling system is still going strong. Our primary charging comes from 280 watts of solar panels and a D400 wind generator.  Rarely do we have to rely on the generator for charging.  We did discover that the wind generator alone was not sufficient for our needs; the addition of the solar panels has made all the difference. We use a Blue Sky solar regulator for fine tuning the charging of our batteries. We have a Blue Sea Battery monitor for the house bank and starter battery, which does a pretty good job, but it has some quirks. We have replaced virtually all lights with LED bulbs or fixtures; Imtra and Sensi-bulb bulbs in most interior lights and Orca Green fixtures for all running lights and mast head light.

Electronics

We have put in mostly Garmin products with mixed results.  We have had failures with both the 4212 Chart plotter and the radar dome. Garmin did replace the units but we have had some expense and frustration.  We chose Garmin as their pre-loaded maps were based on the Explorer Charts in the Bahamas, known to be the most reliable charts of the area.  A splurge was the installation of the Garmin XM Satellite weather radio.  It gives me confidence to be able to receive real time weather and weather radar while at sea, but it only works along the coastal United States; in the Bahamas it is useless.  Our only Raymarine product is the auto-pilot. We changed out the old Raymarine auto-pilot for a more robust model last year.  Some components of the old system are interchangeable with the new system, allowing us to carry spares at no additional expense. We installed a Vespermarine transmit and receive AIS system.  It is a stand alone device which we favor as we don’t want to clutter the chart plotter screen with additional data.  It is something we would highly recommend from both a safety and social standpoint.  Night passages in congested areas are much less stressful, and often we have freighters and cruise ships hail us to negotiate passings.  Other cruisers also make contact on passages, and as a result we will chat during long nights and meet up in person once we reach our destination. We have an ICOM 504 VHF with an additional cockpit microphone which we find very helpful.  And we have an ICOM 802 Single Side band radio with Pactor modem for communication out of VHF range. We use it for weather reports when offshore, minimal offshore emailing capacity, and connections to Cruisers’ Nets.  Some people opt for satellite radios for offshore, but they do not give access to nets.

Plumbing

We installed a Spectra Cape Horn DC watermaker.  It doesn’t have all the bells and whistles of more elaborate models, but we hear reports that failures tend to happen with the bells and whistles parts.  Our model can make 10 gallons an hour (10 amps per hour) using one pump and 18 gallons an hour (18 amps per hour) using an additional pump.  We go with the lower flow rate, alternating pumps to extend their life. We only use the watermaker when we have very clean water, generally in the ocean, the Bahamas, and New England.  The rest of the time the unit is pickled and we scrounge for water.  The watermaker is a luxury, not a necessity, but we do enjoy it.  We have an elaborate water manifold that allows us to fill and draw from any of our three water tanks which total 120 gallons.

Engine and Fuel Systems

Our Yanmar 4JH2-TE diesel engine (62hp) is very reliable.  One factor in engine reliability is insuring fuel is clean.  Burt installed a complicated fuel manifold and polishing system.  Additionally, we are careful where we buy fuel, especially in the Bahamas. As an additional safeguard, the pick-up lines for the engine are offset from the bottom of the fuel tanks by ¾ inch, while the pickups for the generator are right on the bottom. If we do get bad fuel, it will stop the generator before impacting the engine. And, an engine that starts and runs reliably is a very good engine! We carry about 100 gallons of fuel giving us about a 600 mile cruising range between purchases. We installed a Max  Prop feathering  prop when we purchased the boat.

Anchoring and dinghy

Our primary anchor is a 72 pound Rocna with 130 feet 3/8” chain and 220 feet of ¾” nylon rode.  We sleep soundly and would highly recommend this set up.  The secondary anchor is 66 pound claw with 80 feet of chain and 180 feet of rode. Both are carried on offset bow rollers. Additionally we carry a large Danforth anchor and rode in our stern lazarette.  Our Maxwell 2200 windless that was original with the boat still functions well. Our dinghy is a Walker Bay 10’2” hard bottom that we carry on Atkins and Hoyle davits that incorporate the pole for the wind generator and are altered to use one arm as a hoist for the Tohatsu 9.8 outboard.  Dinghies are never big enough and outboards are never powerful enough – you are limited by weight and carrying capacity.  We seem to survive with this set up.

Safety

We carry a 4 person life raft and a 406 MHz GPS Epirb, both of which we hope never to deploy. We comply with virtually all Coast Guard regulations although we do not carry flares on our inflatable dinghy – who in the world ever thought of that regulation? It seems like a good way to burn a hole through the dinghy and sink as you await rescue. Instead we carry a handheld VHF with strobe light. We use inflatable life vests with aftermarket crotch straps and attachment points for tethers.  We always rig jack lines when going off shore.

Refrigeration

We replaced our engine driven refrigeration system which was failing with two SeaFrost 12v systems; one for the refrigerator and one for the freezer. Before installing them the insulation in both boxes was inspected and 2” of insulation was added to the freezer and then re-glassed in place.

Other Items

We carry two Dahon bicycles on board that we couldn’t live without.  They are our transportation to groceries, laundries, and sightseeing.  Without them, our explorations would be very limited.  That said, they are useless in the Bahamas as the roads, when they do exist, are too narrow and potholed for safe biking. Also, the bikes, in their zip on covers, take up our entire forward stateroom making it next to impossible to comfortably accommodate guests. We have a stereo system with XM satellite radio and an iPod dock which we use constantly.  Even far away, we can keep up with the news. We carry two 17 pound fiberglass propane tanks for cooking. We can go up to six months before we need to find a propane source. We have a gas barbeque on the stern rail that is wonderful for cooking in hot weather.  And, speaking of hot, we have two reverse cycle air conditioning units that came with the boat.  We only use them when at a dock or when we need to load up the generator when charging batteries.  Rarely are we uncomfortable at anchor as the breezes keep us cool. Finally, Kindles or other e-readers are a great addition. We don’t have a television or a microwave, items other cruisers consider essential.  We have learned to live without them and appreciate that both can be energy hogs.

There is certainly more to report, but it does escape me at this point.  The bottom line is that many equipment choices are just a matter of taste.  As we gain more experience with our boat, we have a better understanding of what it takes to make our lives more comfortable. You can find reviews of different products on cruising web sites, and the advice of experienced cruisers is helpful but perhaps not always appropriate for your situation. We would be happy to address any further questions at the email address associated with this blog.

Cutting Our Losses and Heading Home

Our plans had been to head from Eleuthera over to the Abacos for several weeks and then depart for a trip back to the States. But looking at the long range weather forecast that even mentions a possibility of tropical activity in mid-May, we make the decision to head directly back to the States with a several day weather window. We make our way out of Harbor Island, this time without the services of a pilot.  It is a nail-bitter, but with the help of our previous track, we successfully negotiate the reefs and emerge into the deep waters of Northwest Channel.  The wind is up, and we have a fast reaching sail along the south coasts of Abaco Island and Grand Bahama Island.  Around midnight we are passing the settlement of West End, and I make an attempt to get the latest weather forecast on our cellular internet service.  It is a good move as the situation has changed, and our weather guru is suggesting that we exit the Gulf Stream before noon the next day.  We had planned to arrive at Fort Pierce, Florida late afternoon, so we alter our plans to head directly to Lake Worth Inlet which is closer.  Arriving there in the early afternoon, we notice the north winds are beginning to build, and the waves in the Gulf Stream are getting annoying.  We escape to the protection of the ICW, and our reward is a day of negotiating a series of lift bridges that are not timed for slower sailboats.  It is a hurry up and wait scenario – one we hope not to repeat anytime in the near future. 

We arrive at the mooring field at Vero Beach to welcomes from many of our friends who also have been cruising the Bahamas. Your first stop in the States after a season in the Bahamas is one of readjustment.  Traffic, crowds, and all that the “land of plenty” has to offer are alien concepts.  One friend asks to go with me on my initial run to the grocery as she says she wants to see the expression on my face when I confront so many choices.  The day after we arrive we take the opportunity to tour a submarine factory, organized by one of the permanent dock holders.  We aren’t sure what to expect as it seems very unlikely naval subs were ever manufactured in Vero. We arrive at a small factory that builds personal subs for the luxury yacht community.  If you have a yacht over 200 feet long, perhaps you need a sub as the latest fun toy.  Their most popular model seats three and can go to depths of 3000 feet to give you an unparallel underwater experience.  By the way, you’ll need around $4 million dollars to join this club.  

Yours for only 4 mil

 The remainder of our time in Vero is spent reprovisioning and replenishing basic necessities, bouncing between shopping centers on the free bus service.  We also reconnect with friends over meals out (at what now seems like ridiculously inexpensive prices) and entertaining on various boats.  I even put on a pretty decent Easter dinner for several couples. 

Easter Monday we begin a three day trip up the ICW to St. Augustine. This portion is pleasant and easy for us to negotiate as depths are consistent and the scenery is varied, ranging from waterfront mansions to the Kennedy Space Center and the Canaveral National Wildlife Preserve. Dolphins show up around inlets, and the bird life is particularly interesting.  On one spoils island we see a colony of Roseate Spoonbills roosting side by side with White Pelicans.   

A Spoonbill flies past our boat underway in the Canaveral National Wildlife Refuge

We get to St. Augustine early enough in the day to enjoy a walk through the historical neighborhood and dinner with cruising friends who are moored nearby.

With the weather improving for a couple of days, we head out the St. Augustine Inlet for a 200 mile ocean passage to Charleston. It is an uneventful trip – always a good thing – and we drop the hook in an anchorage right across from the City Marina’s Megadock.  There is generally at least one interesting boat tied up on the dock, and this time we are treated to an approximately 200 foot long Perini Navi ketch, a high end Italian design.  We have seen others like this tied up in the Caribbean awaiting charter guests, and Exuberant looks pretty puny in comparison. 

A Perini Navi Yacht tied up at the Mega-dock across from our anchorage

We love Charleston.  It is probably our favorite city along the East Coast, so we will spend several days relaxing here.  We ride bikes through the neighborhoods, admiring the architectural gems and spring gardens and even visit the extensive Saturday morning Farmers’ Market that takes up an entire city block.  

A pineapple motif in a park by the Charleston waterfront

 

A traditional styled Charleston house in the historic district

Window boxes abound with springtime flowers

Another passage opportunity presents itself, and we take off for a 200 mile trip on the Atlantic to Beaufort, North Carolina.  Upon arrival, the crew is rewarded with a several night stay on a dock – a real dock with electricity, fresh water, and access to shore without a dinghy ride!  I have arrived in the lap of luxury.  We enjoy Beaufort because the docks line the downtown, with attractive shops and restaurants right across the street. The other side of the harbor is formed by Shackelford Island, a barrier island that is home to a herd of wild horses. 

Wild horses on Shackelford Island, across the creek from our dock

All in all, it is a very scenic location.  Right as we are tying to the dock, a boat goes by that we don’t recognize, but we hear someone shouting, “Hey, Burt and Prue.”  We immediately venture down the docks to find Mike and Ken Austin, brothers from our old sailing club in Ohio.  They are helping deliver a boat up the East Coast for a new and inexperienced owner.  We have a nice visit and try to provide as much information as possible about the trip ahead as neither our friends nor the boat’s owner have ever done this trip before.  And it is another of those “it’s a small world” encounters.

We cast off from Beaufort for a short hop up the ICW to Oriental where we need to pick up a regulator for our alternator.  The regulator broke upon our arrival in the States, and we have been limping along and chasing it up the East Coast ever since.  On our way bicycling to the West Marine Store we hear another “Hey, Burt and Prue”.  It’s a couple we met in Marathon this winter and they, too, are headed north.  We make arrangements to meet them for drinks.  We get back to our boat, and for a third time in almost as many days we hear “Hey, Burt and Prue” again.  Tied up one slip away is George on Delicia and his crew of friends we knew from Sandusky.  George, Mike P., Mike Z. and Chris (the guys all wanted to see their names in print in the blog J) join us for a dinner full of Lake Erie reminiscing later that evening. 

Exuberant docked in Oriental next to a beautifully restored Trumpe Yacht

In order to avoid rounding Cape Hatteras on the outside, we spend three more days slogging up the ICW. A stop for Cinco de Mayo in Great Bridge, on the outskirts of Norfolk, allows us to position ourselves for the last dozen miles of the ICW and the most frustrating section for bridge openings.  We arrive at the dreaded Gilmerton Bridge to find that we must wait for tugs to push a large freighter through the channel and the open bridge.  It takes so long that the bridge is closed to allow road traffic to clear.  Just as we are about to get our opening, a train comes by and the neighboring railroad bridge is closed for its passage.  Finally, almost an hour later, we get our opening.  Our reward is finding free docks for us and two other boats traveling with us available at (ICW) Mile Zero along the Portsmouth waterfront. 

Exuberant docked in Portsmouth

And right across the river from our dock are two aircraft carriers, one in a dry dock

We take the opportunity to wander through the renovated section of Old Town Portsmouth.    

One of the restored homes in Portsmouth's Old Town

That evening we join three other couples to stroll to the restored, historical Commodore Theater for dinner and a movie. 

We have ten miles to go before arriving at the open waters of the Chesapeake, but these ten miles can be very interesting.  We go by huge freighters being loaded and unloaded at commercial facilities.  We see naval vessels being refurbished.  And then we arrive at the Norfolk Naval Base docks.  Tied up are naval ships of every description, 

A large aircraft carrier tied along the Norfolk Naval Base docks

When we pass by the submarine pen, we see atypical activity around one of the subs.   

A sub with naval personnel on deck and tugs nearby.  What could be going on here?

Moments later, we are approached by a Coast Guard gun ship and told that one of the subs is leaving port. We need stay at least 500 yards away or risk “lethal fire”.  We look back, and sure enough, the sub is being towed into the channel.  We alter course to try to maintain the proper distance but it isn’t an easy process.  We need to avoid other traffic and stay in sufficiently deep water.  At first we are traveling faster than the sub so things are looking good. But suddenly, the tugs release the sub, and it starts moving considerably faster on its own.  There are few options for changing course, so we hug the far side of the channel and begin chewing our nails.  The sub passes us well within the 500 yards perimeter as armed security boats circle around it.

We're a bit too close for comfort with these guys!

This is the first, and hopefully the last, time we are waked by a submarine – and it does throw one heck of a bow wave when traveling on the surface. 

We take three more days to complete our trip up the Chesapeake to Deale, Maryland where the boat will spend two weeks getting routine annual maintenance and cleaning, after which we will travel to Ohio and Wisconsin to visit family and get our “annual maintenance” with doctors and the dentist. It has been 29 days since we left the Bahamas.  We have been traveling for 18 of those days including three offshore overnight passages.  And, we have covered 1162 nautical miles – whew!!!

Exploring Eleuthera - the Northern Portion

It has been a long winter of scheduling our sailing around the continual frontal passages.  It appears we have a period of settled weather, so we leave Rock Sound and begin the trek further north.  After a pleasant reach back to Governor’s Harbor, we leave the next morning for Alabaster Bay. This pretty section of crescent beach is anchored by the upscale Coco deMamas Resort.  We head in for lunch but find that the resort has gone out of business, a turn of events that isn’t too unusual here in the Bahamian Out Islands.   

The now closed resort at Alabaster Bay

Instead of lunch, we take a long stroll through the shallow waters along the beach.  The water is crystal clear and sea life abounds.  One family has discovered a cache of sand dollars while we enjoy watching all the minnows darting through the knee deep water. 

Interesting patterns of fish and shadows over the sand bottom

 

Our next hop takes us past the picturesque Glass Window where only a narrow section of rock separates the ocean waters from the banks were are traversing. 

The Glass Window from a distance - water levels can differ by up to two feet between the banks and the ocean.  A bridge takes traffic over this narrow sliver of rock

The sail is typically delightful, gliding over turquoise flat waters in mild trade winds from the east. 

Glorious sailing in the lee of Eleuthera

We time our arrival to coincide with slack tide at Current Cut, a narrow passage between Eleuthera proper and an outlying cay.  If you haven’t figured correctly you could find yourself bucking currents of up to five knots.  We have an easy passage through and drop anchor off of Meeks Patch, a cay about two miles from the town of Spanish Wells.  We have a bumpy and wet ride in the dinghy into Spanish Wells. We can’t take the boat in at this point of the day as the water is only passable at high tide for vessels of our draft.

Spanish Wells has been described as very different from the typical Bahamian settlement.  And now we know why.  It is a working town invested heavily in fishing.  The harbor is lined with well maintained fishing boats, but there is very little other infrastructure for tourists.  

The fishing fleet tied up in Spanish Wells

After tying up the dinghy we climb up a high wall and walk through the town.  The houses are remarkably well kept and large by typical out island standards. Obviously the residents are very successful.  They are mostly white Bahamians descended from the Eleutheran Adventurers, a group which came from England to avoid religious persecution shortly after the Pilgrims settled in New England.  They struggled to survive in this challenging environment, and their work ethic is still obvious today. 

Once again, weather is dictating our plans.  Another strong front is predicted to come through, so we make the decision to take the boat to Harbor Island, about ten miles east of Spanish Wells.  The harbor will afford us good protection from the clocking winds, but getting there is another issue.  We hire Bandit as our pilot for the trip.  At the appointed time he arrives in his fiberglass skiff at our boat which is anchored on the west side of Spanish Wells.  After tying up behind Exuberant he climbs aboard and takes over the helm.  Getting in and out of Spanish Wells requires high tide, and once we clear the harbor we need to deal with an intricate passage through dangerous reefs. 

Leaving Spanish Wells for the beginning of the Devil's Backbone

Ocean swells break right next to the narrow channels between reef and rocky shoreline.  It is a daunting trip, but we do have an opportunity to chat with Bandit, otherwise known as Jock Morgan. He traces his family back to the original Eleutheran Adventurers and has made a career of piloting and captaining boats.  For a period of time, he even captained a Matthews 52 that summered in Port Clinton, Ohio and wintered in Spanish Wells.  We safely arrive at Harbor Island  - pilots aren’t cheap but we feel it is money well spent.  Jock speeds back to Spanish Wells where he will pick up another boat, this time most likely one of the large luxury yachts that populate the marinas in Harbor Island.

Harbor Island is quite different from most of our stops in the out islands.  It is definitely an upscale tourist destination.  The marinas are expensive and are filled with large sport fishing boats and luxury motor yachts.

Some of the mega-yachts at Harbor Island - the one to the far left belongs to Denise Rich of the Clinton pardon fame.  Sometimes you just can't resent the wealth when it is obtained illegally. She has now given up her US citizenship due to tax issues.

There are only a few sailboats anchored off the town in the “cheap seats”.  We spend around a week here, exploring the town and awaiting the bad weather.  The bikes finally make it to shore to aid in exploration and trips to the laundromat and grocery store. Despite the upscale nature of Harbor Island, the only coin laundry is in a Haitian refugee neighborhood, and it is probably the most decrepit laundry we have seen in the Bahamas.  Apparently, visitors either have laundries on board their boats, or they use expensive wash and fold services. 

Exploring the town is a delight.  Along the harbor side there are century old cottages and modern vacation villas.  

Bougainvillea along the road in Harbor Island

Cottages along a narrow road

Water taxis come and go, and native fishing boats gather around the Fish Fry area.  Biking up and down the hills, we arrive at the southern tip of the island, affording views down the length of Eleuthera proper and out into the sapphire waters of the ocean.  On the way, we stop at the “Haunted House”.   

The remains of the haunted house  - it must have been spectacular in its time

When Burt visited Harbor Island with his parents years ago, this was a recently deserted mansion with furnishing still intact and rumors of ghosts in residence.  There was no other development nearby.  Today, a marina is situated down the hill, and the mansion is just a ruin with a remarkable view. A three mile pink sand beach graces the eastern side of the island.  Here there are several large resorts with their rows of lounges and beach umbrellas.  We tuck in between resorts and enjoy a day on the beach, interrupted by a gourmet lunch at the well known Sip Sip Restaurant atop the dunes.  Locals say this beach is rated on of the top ten in the world, and they may have a legitimate claim.

View of the beach from the deck of Sip Sip

The anticipated frontal system arrives, and we are marooned on our boat for two days with winds gusting into the thirties and several heavy rain squalls. There is minimal activity in the harbor, skies are steel gray, and the water is whipped up into a froth. We are living on a bucking bronco of a boat, something that wouldn’t be recommended for those with a tendency for sea sickness.  It may be spring by the calendar, but we are still awaiting the more typical settled weather of the season.

Exploring Eleuthera – the Southern Portion

The winter fronts just won’t quit, and we take refuge in the large harbor at Rock Sound in south Eleuthera.  Two fronts are predicted, about four days apart, and will provide intense rain, high winds, and some serious lightning.  It is obvious that winter isn’t over, even if the calendar says so. 

Squalls approach

In fact two friends’ boats experience a near lightning strike.  One loses its wind indicator, and the other has a damaged VHF radio.  Although they were not hit directly, the electrical surge from the lightning is the enemy of electronics.  We put everything electronic that isn’t permanently installed in our oven when storms lurk nearby, as the oven can act as a Faraday cage for protection.

Rock Sound isn’t an especially interesting place, but it does have a nice laundry, a good grocery store, and several decent restaurants.  We avail ourselves of all of the above.  Between the fronts we head out with our friends on s/v Delicia  for a 25 nautical mile passage further north to the more picturesque town of Governor’s Harbor.  It’s a tight reach in around 20 knots of winds, so we have a lively and fast trip there under reefed sails. 

Governor’s Harbor was the original capital of the Bahamas, and its colonial architecture and commercial area known as Cupids Cay attest to its past.  We stroll along the waterfront 

Sea life along the shore at governor's Harbor

and wonder about the unusual raft floating nearby.  

Anntiki at her mooring in Governor's Harbor

 Later we meet “Carl from Austria”, a winter resident and bit of a character, at a coffee shop.  In his heavily accented English, he tells us that this raft, named Anntiki, was sailed from Spain by several men in their 80’s about five years ago.  They were duplicating a trip they had taken many years prior in a traditional sailboat.  The raft made it to the ocean side of Eleuthera Island and then was towed to Governor’s Harbor by Carl and several of his friends.  It is now for sale and can be yours for only $5000, although you’d have to spring a bit more for an engine.

We wander through the small town, admiring the well kept homes.   

Attractive cottage and plantings in governor's Harbor

The waterfront library is beautifully restored and a source of pride for the community. 

Haynes Library in governor's Harbor

And its graceful interior

Next door is the Anglican Church with its detached bell tower, something that seems typical of Bahamian churches, although we don’t know why. 

Anglican Church in Governor's Harbor

Stopping by the Duck Inn, we ask permission to visit their extensive gardens.  Rainfall has been unusually heavy this winter leaving the garden lush and full of blooming plants.

Gardens at the Duck Inn

And one bloom we thought was especially beautiful.

Our main reason for visiting Governor’s Harbor is to gain access to the Leon Levy Nature Center, a park within the Bahamian National Park Service.  After a several mile taxi ride we arrive at the center.  The cost of the land and all the construction and maintenance was donated by a successful American financier, Leon Levy.  He had vacationed in Eleuthera for many years, and as he had aged and had some health issues, he was treated by local practitioners with traditional bush medicine which he found to be effective.  The establishment of the preserve was his family’s way of saying thank you. The center features only indigenous plants and has an extensive area dedicated to bush medicine plants, divided into areas that treat specific bodily ailments. We even have an opportunity to sample some of the bush teas.   

A blooming plant along the trails whose leaves are brewed for medicinal purposes.

Further along the hiking trails we find an area displaying native agricultural plants, all arranged by region of origin. 

Banana trees - origin from Africa

Agriculture is important on Eleuthera as this is one of the few islands in the Bahamas that has decent top soil. As we hike the well groomed trails, we see several large termite nests (Don’t want to take these guys home!)

George and Burt examine the termite nest

and a variety of orchids and bromeliads growing on trees.  

One of the orchids growing along the trail

Birds abound, and we even encounter a Bahamian Boa Constrictor which is a rather small and harmless snake.

After the strenuous hiking we reward ourselves with dinner at the Buccaneer Club in Governor’s Harbor. 

George and Doreen Menke join us for recuperation and dinner.

 We have enjoyed our little excursion with George and Doreen from s/v Delicia.  We first met them in 2006 when our sailing club in Sandusky joined with their club for a cruise across Lake Erie.  They were just about to depart the Great Lakes to head to the Bahamas, and we were so impressed when they described what they intended to do.  And now, eight years later, we have joined them on this adventure.

The next day we head back to Rock Sound.  Another nasty front is on its way, and Governor’s Harbor is just too open for the predicted strong westerly winds.  Again we have a fast and lively sail back to protection.  We will await another opportunity to head further north.