Cutting Our Losses and Heading Home

Our plans had been to head from Eleuthera over to the Abacos for several weeks and then depart for a trip back to the States. But looking at the long range weather forecast that even mentions a possibility of tropical activity in mid-May, we make the decision to head directly back to the States with a several day weather window. We make our way out of Harbor Island, this time without the services of a pilot.  It is a nail-bitter, but with the help of our previous track, we successfully negotiate the reefs and emerge into the deep waters of Northwest Channel.  The wind is up, and we have a fast reaching sail along the south coasts of Abaco Island and Grand Bahama Island.  Around midnight we are passing the settlement of West End, and I make an attempt to get the latest weather forecast on our cellular internet service.  It is a good move as the situation has changed, and our weather guru is suggesting that we exit the Gulf Stream before noon the next day.  We had planned to arrive at Fort Pierce, Florida late afternoon, so we alter our plans to head directly to Lake Worth Inlet which is closer.  Arriving there in the early afternoon, we notice the north winds are beginning to build, and the waves in the Gulf Stream are getting annoying.  We escape to the protection of the ICW, and our reward is a day of negotiating a series of lift bridges that are not timed for slower sailboats.  It is a hurry up and wait scenario – one we hope not to repeat anytime in the near future. 

We arrive at the mooring field at Vero Beach to welcomes from many of our friends who also have been cruising the Bahamas. Your first stop in the States after a season in the Bahamas is one of readjustment.  Traffic, crowds, and all that the “land of plenty” has to offer are alien concepts.  One friend asks to go with me on my initial run to the grocery as she says she wants to see the expression on my face when I confront so many choices.  The day after we arrive we take the opportunity to tour a submarine factory, organized by one of the permanent dock holders.  We aren’t sure what to expect as it seems very unlikely naval subs were ever manufactured in Vero. We arrive at a small factory that builds personal subs for the luxury yacht community.  If you have a yacht over 200 feet long, perhaps you need a sub as the latest fun toy.  Their most popular model seats three and can go to depths of 3000 feet to give you an unparallel underwater experience.  By the way, you’ll need around $4 million dollars to join this club.  

Yours for only 4 mil

 The remainder of our time in Vero is spent reprovisioning and replenishing basic necessities, bouncing between shopping centers on the free bus service.  We also reconnect with friends over meals out (at what now seems like ridiculously inexpensive prices) and entertaining on various boats.  I even put on a pretty decent Easter dinner for several couples. 

Easter Monday we begin a three day trip up the ICW to St. Augustine. This portion is pleasant and easy for us to negotiate as depths are consistent and the scenery is varied, ranging from waterfront mansions to the Kennedy Space Center and the Canaveral National Wildlife Preserve. Dolphins show up around inlets, and the bird life is particularly interesting.  On one spoils island we see a colony of Roseate Spoonbills roosting side by side with White Pelicans.   

A Spoonbill flies past our boat underway in the Canaveral National Wildlife Refuge

We get to St. Augustine early enough in the day to enjoy a walk through the historical neighborhood and dinner with cruising friends who are moored nearby.

With the weather improving for a couple of days, we head out the St. Augustine Inlet for a 200 mile ocean passage to Charleston. It is an uneventful trip – always a good thing – and we drop the hook in an anchorage right across from the City Marina’s Megadock.  There is generally at least one interesting boat tied up on the dock, and this time we are treated to an approximately 200 foot long Perini Navi ketch, a high end Italian design.  We have seen others like this tied up in the Caribbean awaiting charter guests, and Exuberant looks pretty puny in comparison. 

A Perini Navi Yacht tied up at the Mega-dock across from our anchorage

We love Charleston.  It is probably our favorite city along the East Coast, so we will spend several days relaxing here.  We ride bikes through the neighborhoods, admiring the architectural gems and spring gardens and even visit the extensive Saturday morning Farmers’ Market that takes up an entire city block.  

A pineapple motif in a park by the Charleston waterfront

 

A traditional styled Charleston house in the historic district

Window boxes abound with springtime flowers

Another passage opportunity presents itself, and we take off for a 200 mile trip on the Atlantic to Beaufort, North Carolina.  Upon arrival, the crew is rewarded with a several night stay on a dock – a real dock with electricity, fresh water, and access to shore without a dinghy ride!  I have arrived in the lap of luxury.  We enjoy Beaufort because the docks line the downtown, with attractive shops and restaurants right across the street. The other side of the harbor is formed by Shackelford Island, a barrier island that is home to a herd of wild horses. 

Wild horses on Shackelford Island, across the creek from our dock

All in all, it is a very scenic location.  Right as we are tying to the dock, a boat goes by that we don’t recognize, but we hear someone shouting, “Hey, Burt and Prue.”  We immediately venture down the docks to find Mike and Ken Austin, brothers from our old sailing club in Ohio.  They are helping deliver a boat up the East Coast for a new and inexperienced owner.  We have a nice visit and try to provide as much information as possible about the trip ahead as neither our friends nor the boat’s owner have ever done this trip before.  And it is another of those “it’s a small world” encounters.

We cast off from Beaufort for a short hop up the ICW to Oriental where we need to pick up a regulator for our alternator.  The regulator broke upon our arrival in the States, and we have been limping along and chasing it up the East Coast ever since.  On our way bicycling to the West Marine Store we hear another “Hey, Burt and Prue”.  It’s a couple we met in Marathon this winter and they, too, are headed north.  We make arrangements to meet them for drinks.  We get back to our boat, and for a third time in almost as many days we hear “Hey, Burt and Prue” again.  Tied up one slip away is George on Delicia and his crew of friends we knew from Sandusky.  George, Mike P., Mike Z. and Chris (the guys all wanted to see their names in print in the blog J) join us for a dinner full of Lake Erie reminiscing later that evening. 

Exuberant docked in Oriental next to a beautifully restored Trumpe Yacht

In order to avoid rounding Cape Hatteras on the outside, we spend three more days slogging up the ICW. A stop for Cinco de Mayo in Great Bridge, on the outskirts of Norfolk, allows us to position ourselves for the last dozen miles of the ICW and the most frustrating section for bridge openings.  We arrive at the dreaded Gilmerton Bridge to find that we must wait for tugs to push a large freighter through the channel and the open bridge.  It takes so long that the bridge is closed to allow road traffic to clear.  Just as we are about to get our opening, a train comes by and the neighboring railroad bridge is closed for its passage.  Finally, almost an hour later, we get our opening.  Our reward is finding free docks for us and two other boats traveling with us available at (ICW) Mile Zero along the Portsmouth waterfront. 

Exuberant docked in Portsmouth

And right across the river from our dock are two aircraft carriers, one in a dry dock

We take the opportunity to wander through the renovated section of Old Town Portsmouth.    

One of the restored homes in Portsmouth's Old Town

That evening we join three other couples to stroll to the restored, historical Commodore Theater for dinner and a movie. 

We have ten miles to go before arriving at the open waters of the Chesapeake, but these ten miles can be very interesting.  We go by huge freighters being loaded and unloaded at commercial facilities.  We see naval vessels being refurbished.  And then we arrive at the Norfolk Naval Base docks.  Tied up are naval ships of every description, 

A large aircraft carrier tied along the Norfolk Naval Base docks

When we pass by the submarine pen, we see atypical activity around one of the subs.   

A sub with naval personnel on deck and tugs nearby.  What could be going on here?

Moments later, we are approached by a Coast Guard gun ship and told that one of the subs is leaving port. We need stay at least 500 yards away or risk “lethal fire”.  We look back, and sure enough, the sub is being towed into the channel.  We alter course to try to maintain the proper distance but it isn’t an easy process.  We need to avoid other traffic and stay in sufficiently deep water.  At first we are traveling faster than the sub so things are looking good. But suddenly, the tugs release the sub, and it starts moving considerably faster on its own.  There are few options for changing course, so we hug the far side of the channel and begin chewing our nails.  The sub passes us well within the 500 yards perimeter as armed security boats circle around it.

We're a bit too close for comfort with these guys!

This is the first, and hopefully the last, time we are waked by a submarine – and it does throw one heck of a bow wave when traveling on the surface. 

We take three more days to complete our trip up the Chesapeake to Deale, Maryland where the boat will spend two weeks getting routine annual maintenance and cleaning, after which we will travel to Ohio and Wisconsin to visit family and get our “annual maintenance” with doctors and the dentist. It has been 29 days since we left the Bahamas.  We have been traveling for 18 of those days including three offshore overnight passages.  And, we have covered 1162 nautical miles – whew!!!

Exploring Eleuthera - the Northern Portion

It has been a long winter of scheduling our sailing around the continual frontal passages.  It appears we have a period of settled weather, so we leave Rock Sound and begin the trek further north.  After a pleasant reach back to Governor’s Harbor, we leave the next morning for Alabaster Bay. This pretty section of crescent beach is anchored by the upscale Coco deMamas Resort.  We head in for lunch but find that the resort has gone out of business, a turn of events that isn’t too unusual here in the Bahamian Out Islands.   

The now closed resort at Alabaster Bay

Instead of lunch, we take a long stroll through the shallow waters along the beach.  The water is crystal clear and sea life abounds.  One family has discovered a cache of sand dollars while we enjoy watching all the minnows darting through the knee deep water. 

Interesting patterns of fish and shadows over the sand bottom

 

Our next hop takes us past the picturesque Glass Window where only a narrow section of rock separates the ocean waters from the banks were are traversing. 

The Glass Window from a distance - water levels can differ by up to two feet between the banks and the ocean.  A bridge takes traffic over this narrow sliver of rock

The sail is typically delightful, gliding over turquoise flat waters in mild trade winds from the east. 

Glorious sailing in the lee of Eleuthera

We time our arrival to coincide with slack tide at Current Cut, a narrow passage between Eleuthera proper and an outlying cay.  If you haven’t figured correctly you could find yourself bucking currents of up to five knots.  We have an easy passage through and drop anchor off of Meeks Patch, a cay about two miles from the town of Spanish Wells.  We have a bumpy and wet ride in the dinghy into Spanish Wells. We can’t take the boat in at this point of the day as the water is only passable at high tide for vessels of our draft.

Spanish Wells has been described as very different from the typical Bahamian settlement.  And now we know why.  It is a working town invested heavily in fishing.  The harbor is lined with well maintained fishing boats, but there is very little other infrastructure for tourists.  

The fishing fleet tied up in Spanish Wells

After tying up the dinghy we climb up a high wall and walk through the town.  The houses are remarkably well kept and large by typical out island standards. Obviously the residents are very successful.  They are mostly white Bahamians descended from the Eleutheran Adventurers, a group which came from England to avoid religious persecution shortly after the Pilgrims settled in New England.  They struggled to survive in this challenging environment, and their work ethic is still obvious today. 

Once again, weather is dictating our plans.  Another strong front is predicted to come through, so we make the decision to take the boat to Harbor Island, about ten miles east of Spanish Wells.  The harbor will afford us good protection from the clocking winds, but getting there is another issue.  We hire Bandit as our pilot for the trip.  At the appointed time he arrives in his fiberglass skiff at our boat which is anchored on the west side of Spanish Wells.  After tying up behind Exuberant he climbs aboard and takes over the helm.  Getting in and out of Spanish Wells requires high tide, and once we clear the harbor we need to deal with an intricate passage through dangerous reefs. 

Leaving Spanish Wells for the beginning of the Devil's Backbone

Ocean swells break right next to the narrow channels between reef and rocky shoreline.  It is a daunting trip, but we do have an opportunity to chat with Bandit, otherwise known as Jock Morgan. He traces his family back to the original Eleutheran Adventurers and has made a career of piloting and captaining boats.  For a period of time, he even captained a Matthews 52 that summered in Port Clinton, Ohio and wintered in Spanish Wells.  We safely arrive at Harbor Island  - pilots aren’t cheap but we feel it is money well spent.  Jock speeds back to Spanish Wells where he will pick up another boat, this time most likely one of the large luxury yachts that populate the marinas in Harbor Island.

Harbor Island is quite different from most of our stops in the out islands.  It is definitely an upscale tourist destination.  The marinas are expensive and are filled with large sport fishing boats and luxury motor yachts.

Some of the mega-yachts at Harbor Island - the one to the far left belongs to Denise Rich of the Clinton pardon fame.  Sometimes you just can't resent the wealth when it is obtained illegally. She has now given up her US citizenship due to tax issues.

There are only a few sailboats anchored off the town in the “cheap seats”.  We spend around a week here, exploring the town and awaiting the bad weather.  The bikes finally make it to shore to aid in exploration and trips to the laundromat and grocery store. Despite the upscale nature of Harbor Island, the only coin laundry is in a Haitian refugee neighborhood, and it is probably the most decrepit laundry we have seen in the Bahamas.  Apparently, visitors either have laundries on board their boats, or they use expensive wash and fold services. 

Exploring the town is a delight.  Along the harbor side there are century old cottages and modern vacation villas.  

Bougainvillea along the road in Harbor Island

Cottages along a narrow road

Water taxis come and go, and native fishing boats gather around the Fish Fry area.  Biking up and down the hills, we arrive at the southern tip of the island, affording views down the length of Eleuthera proper and out into the sapphire waters of the ocean.  On the way, we stop at the “Haunted House”.   

The remains of the haunted house  - it must have been spectacular in its time

When Burt visited Harbor Island with his parents years ago, this was a recently deserted mansion with furnishing still intact and rumors of ghosts in residence.  There was no other development nearby.  Today, a marina is situated down the hill, and the mansion is just a ruin with a remarkable view. A three mile pink sand beach graces the eastern side of the island.  Here there are several large resorts with their rows of lounges and beach umbrellas.  We tuck in between resorts and enjoy a day on the beach, interrupted by a gourmet lunch at the well known Sip Sip Restaurant atop the dunes.  Locals say this beach is rated on of the top ten in the world, and they may have a legitimate claim.

View of the beach from the deck of Sip Sip

The anticipated frontal system arrives, and we are marooned on our boat for two days with winds gusting into the thirties and several heavy rain squalls. There is minimal activity in the harbor, skies are steel gray, and the water is whipped up into a froth. We are living on a bucking bronco of a boat, something that wouldn’t be recommended for those with a tendency for sea sickness.  It may be spring by the calendar, but we are still awaiting the more typical settled weather of the season.

Exploring Eleuthera – the Southern Portion

The winter fronts just won’t quit, and we take refuge in the large harbor at Rock Sound in south Eleuthera.  Two fronts are predicted, about four days apart, and will provide intense rain, high winds, and some serious lightning.  It is obvious that winter isn’t over, even if the calendar says so. 

Squalls approach

In fact two friends’ boats experience a near lightning strike.  One loses its wind indicator, and the other has a damaged VHF radio.  Although they were not hit directly, the electrical surge from the lightning is the enemy of electronics.  We put everything electronic that isn’t permanently installed in our oven when storms lurk nearby, as the oven can act as a Faraday cage for protection.

Rock Sound isn’t an especially interesting place, but it does have a nice laundry, a good grocery store, and several decent restaurants.  We avail ourselves of all of the above.  Between the fronts we head out with our friends on s/v Delicia  for a 25 nautical mile passage further north to the more picturesque town of Governor’s Harbor.  It’s a tight reach in around 20 knots of winds, so we have a lively and fast trip there under reefed sails. 

Governor’s Harbor was the original capital of the Bahamas, and its colonial architecture and commercial area known as Cupids Cay attest to its past.  We stroll along the waterfront 

Sea life along the shore at governor's Harbor

and wonder about the unusual raft floating nearby.  

Anntiki at her mooring in Governor's Harbor

 Later we meet “Carl from Austria”, a winter resident and bit of a character, at a coffee shop.  In his heavily accented English, he tells us that this raft, named Anntiki, was sailed from Spain by several men in their 80’s about five years ago.  They were duplicating a trip they had taken many years prior in a traditional sailboat.  The raft made it to the ocean side of Eleuthera Island and then was towed to Governor’s Harbor by Carl and several of his friends.  It is now for sale and can be yours for only $5000, although you’d have to spring a bit more for an engine.

We wander through the small town, admiring the well kept homes.   

Attractive cottage and plantings in governor's Harbor

The waterfront library is beautifully restored and a source of pride for the community. 

Haynes Library in governor's Harbor

And its graceful interior

Next door is the Anglican Church with its detached bell tower, something that seems typical of Bahamian churches, although we don’t know why. 

Anglican Church in Governor's Harbor

Stopping by the Duck Inn, we ask permission to visit their extensive gardens.  Rainfall has been unusually heavy this winter leaving the garden lush and full of blooming plants.

Gardens at the Duck Inn

And one bloom we thought was especially beautiful.

Our main reason for visiting Governor’s Harbor is to gain access to the Leon Levy Nature Center, a park within the Bahamian National Park Service.  After a several mile taxi ride we arrive at the center.  The cost of the land and all the construction and maintenance was donated by a successful American financier, Leon Levy.  He had vacationed in Eleuthera for many years, and as he had aged and had some health issues, he was treated by local practitioners with traditional bush medicine which he found to be effective.  The establishment of the preserve was his family’s way of saying thank you. The center features only indigenous plants and has an extensive area dedicated to bush medicine plants, divided into areas that treat specific bodily ailments. We even have an opportunity to sample some of the bush teas.   

A blooming plant along the trails whose leaves are brewed for medicinal purposes.

Further along the hiking trails we find an area displaying native agricultural plants, all arranged by region of origin. 

Banana trees - origin from Africa

Agriculture is important on Eleuthera as this is one of the few islands in the Bahamas that has decent top soil. As we hike the well groomed trails, we see several large termite nests (Don’t want to take these guys home!)

George and Burt examine the termite nest

and a variety of orchids and bromeliads growing on trees.  

One of the orchids growing along the trail

Birds abound, and we even encounter a Bahamian Boa Constrictor which is a rather small and harmless snake.

After the strenuous hiking we reward ourselves with dinner at the Buccaneer Club in Governor’s Harbor. 

George and Doreen Menke join us for recuperation and dinner.

 We have enjoyed our little excursion with George and Doreen from s/v Delicia.  We first met them in 2006 when our sailing club in Sandusky joined with their club for a cruise across Lake Erie.  They were just about to depart the Great Lakes to head to the Bahamas, and we were so impressed when they described what they intended to do.  And now, eight years later, we have joined them on this adventure.

The next day we head back to Rock Sound.  Another nasty front is on its way, and Governor’s Harbor is just too open for the predicted strong westerly winds.  Again we have a fast and lively sail back to protection.  We will await another opportunity to head further north.

Exploring More Remote Places

We have waited several days for the ideal weather conditions to leave for Long Island.  Although Long Island would qualify as remote, we are not going alone.  Sixty-six boats from George Town are heading southeast to this island on a rally.  The rally involves a quasi-race for the sail over.  We make an early start, as Burt is the statistician for the race, and the view as we leave George Town harbor is incredible.   

The leaders leaving the harbor - many more were behind

Once we survive the large waves pounding into the south cut of the harbor, we are skimming over flat, turquoise seas for the 30 mile passage. White sails dot the horizon behind us.  It is a reach all the way, and we finish a respectable fifth out of fifteen boats in our class. 

Exuberant crosses the finish line at Salt Pond, Long Island

 

Once we drop anchor at the Salt Pond settlement, we quickly head to shore.  The native sailors are putting on a fund raiser at Regatta Point to support their regatta which will be held in July.  We wander over to the government dock to watch the launching of “Running Tide”, a Class A Bahamian sloop which has been recently re-designed with a plumb bow and greater beam in the aft section – just like modern day racing sloops.  

It took a truck crane to step the heavy wood mast on Running Tide

 Over seeing it all is Mark Knowles, a third generation boat builder.  Afterwards, I have a chance to visit with him, and he describes the building process.  Although most of the materials are found locally, some wood, for instance in the mast, is imported at high cost.  All construction is done by hand. The sails are made on Long Island from material produced in Nassau.  If you have the urge to purchase a new A Class Sloop, it will run you around $150,000. So, these beauties are few and far between.  Later in the evening I am introduced to Mark’s father, a true icon in the Bahamas.  

Mr. Knowles, the internationally recognized builder of Bahamian sloops

 He learned his skills from his father, and together they built a number of wooden landing craft which were utilized in World War II along with traditional Bahamian sloops. From this remote island to the forefront of the war effort, these men are very proud of their heritage and Bahamian sailing traditions.  The next day Running Tide is out sailing amongst our anchored boats.  Its power and speed are readily apparent, and we wish them luck in the upcoming Family Island Regatta.  

Running Tide under sail with crew out on two hiking boards

We spend the remainder of our time at Salt Pond visiting with friends, hiking the ocean side beach, 

The ocean coast near Salt Pond

and attending the rally awards banquet on the deck of the Long Island Breeze Resort, overlooking the harbor.  Our friends, Ron and Karen (Rocking Ron and Kool Karen) from Sea Dancer DJ a dance come sunset.  They are famous among the cruisers for their dances, and this will be their last one as they are retiring from cruising.  It is a bitter sweet event.

Boats are departing Salt Pond to go various directions.  We head north with three other boats to Miller’s Bay, home of one of the most renown restaurants in the Bahamas, Chez Pierre.  Pierre is a French Canadian who has settled in this out of the way location but somehow manages to attract capacity crowds to his French-Italian restaurant.  We arrive at the restaurant in time for pictures on the deck, 

The dinner crew at Chez Pierre

sunset cocktails, and a delicious dinner that is anything but Bahamian. Afterwards, we adjourn to another boat.  The three other couples are avid Texas Hold-up players, and this is their opportunity to introduce us to the game. Needless to say, our results are not stellar.

We head back to George Town as a serious weather event is predicted, and we want the protection that Elizabeth Harbor can offer.  The cruisers’ scene is a bit more laid back now that so many boats have departed.  We take care of laundry and a last grocery shopping trip at a store that supplies many American made products.  We take a last hike on lovely Stocking Island.  I hunt for shells and beach glass along a remote beach 

The beautiful beach on the oceanside of Stocking Island - note the pink sand

while Burt makes the steep climb to the monument, the highest point on Stocking Island. 

The view southeastward from Monument Hill, Stocking Island

And it is here in George Town that we celebrate Burt’s birthday, albeit a day early, with two other couples invited to our boat for dinner.  Even in a small galley, with some determination, I make a feast of roasted leg of lamp, side dishes, and homemade cherry pie.  Afterwards, we have a final game of Sequence, a game popular amongst the cruisers.  For once, the girls do not lose as we manage to play to a tie.

With a period of settled weather predicted, we head east to Cat Island. Cat Island, rarely visited by cruisers, is around 50 miles long but with only 1500 residents.  It is a quiet agricultural island.  We stop at New Bight in the southern portion to revisit Father Jerome’s Hermitage.  This miniature Italianate monastery is situated on the highest point in the Bahamas, Mount Alvernia.  

Looking rested before the ascent up Mt. Alvernia

The trip up gets strenuous as we hike a steep, rocky trail among Stations of the Cross carved into the native rock. The buildings themselves, constructed entirely by Father Jerome, the architect of many of the churches in the Bahamian Out Islands, are sized for just one person with sleeping quarters, a small kitchen, an exterior shower, and a miniature chapel with bell tower.  

The Hermitage

 Outside is an intricate cistern system.  

We are ducking rain squalls while at the Hermitage, and once we get down to the beach it really lets loose.  We take refuge in a small restaurant at the Fish Fry (a fancy name for “fast food” shacks).  We are greeted by the effervescent Crystal.  We only want shelter from the rain and a cold drink, but the entire staff, who has nothing else to do, sits down with us.  We are introduced to all, and learn a bit more about life on Cat Island.  During the course of the conversation, I mention that I had heard that a famous Rake and Scrape band heralds from this area.  As I try to decipher the local dialect, we discover that the leader of the group, Pompey, is sitting with us.  “Do you ever play anywhere around here?” I ask.  “Certainly, even tonight, at this location if you are interested”, Pompey replies.  Boy, are we ever interested.  We put out the word to all the cruisers nearby, and come sunset 30 people have arrived for dinner and music. Tables and chairs materialize from nowhere, and we are seated and served traditional Bahamian food as the band, Bo-Hog (Mr. Pompey) and the Rooters sets up in the street.  

Bo-Hog in the middle with Cedell (owner of the restaurant) on the left and Duke who runs the conch shack across the street on the right

 Now, Cat Island is a pretty quiet place so setting up a band in the street and the subsequent dancing doesn’t impede traffic much.  Actually, the few cars just stop, park in the street, and join our little festival. We are amused when the locals start taking pictures with cell phone cameras of all the cruisers enjoying themselves.  Amongst the Bahamian attendees are Mark Knowles and his wife who we had met at Long Island.  They have come over to Cat Island to launch their latest A Class Sloop, the Susan Chase. It is arriving the next day on an inter-island freighter. There are no boat builders on Cat Island, so this will give this island an A Class sloop to call their own. We are partaking of traditional Rake and Scrape that features no amplification as contrasted with the Rake and Scrape that most tourists see at resorts.  Pompey and his group are another Bahamian icon.  They have been recently featured on “Good Morning America” and were sent to France to participate in a festival of international indigenous music. Tonight we are entertained by a saw “raked” by a screw driver, a goat skin drum, and the accordion that once belonged to Pompey’s mother.  It was recently damaged in Hurricane Sandy and the repair job is definitely low-tech.  All in all, it is a magical evening, and one that few outsiders will ever experience.

Before leaving New Bight, we explore the area a bit by bicycle, something that is definitely safe as there is so little traffic.  We pass by the ruins of a church designed by Father Jerome and walk through an interesting grave yard. Life here must be pretty healthy as many of the buried have lived into their 80’s and 90’s.  With little available health care, bush medicine is universally practiced.  A little further down the road we find a house in ruins.   

Cat Island ruin - who knows what spirits lurk inside

Cat Islanders practice some black magic and one of their tenets states that spirits of the deceased still reside in their homes.  Thus, old homes like this are never razed.

We leave New Bight for a short hop up to Fernandez Bay. This beautiful half circle bay is home to two resorts that cater to people who want to go somewhere where there is nothing to do but stroll the beach and swim in the crystal clear waters.  We take long walks through the shallow waters and dinghy up a nearby mangrove creek to find turtles. But, the main reason we have come to Fernandez Bay is to join our friends Jim and Bentley from the catamaran Salty Paws.  They are both accomplished musicians and have been invited by the Fernandez Bay Resort to play during happy hour.  It is Bentley’s birthday so we join them for music at the gazebo bar and then dinner on the candle lit patio with their resort fans. 

Jim and Bentley entertain at Happy Hour at this upscale resort

This is definitely an upscale and memorable event with some special friends.

The next day we enjoy a beautiful sail further north to Little San Salvador Island, otherwise known as Half Moon Cay.  If you have ever taken a Holland American or Norwegian Cruise Line trip in the Bahamas, you have stopped here.  The cruise lines have purchased this island and set up facilities for their guest to enjoy an “Out Island” experience.  Cruisers are allowed to anchor at the far end of the harbor and, once the cruise ship leaves, may walk the beach and interior portions.  We are lucky as the next day no ships are arriving, and we have the run of the place.  We walk past air conditioned beach cabanas, 

Cabanas along the beach at Half Moon Cay

some with hot tubs, food pavilions that can serve thousands, many themed bars, and a sanitized ray experience where one can wade with rays that have had their venomous spines removed.  

One of nine rays in the wading area.  Outside the protective netting lurked a plastic rendition of Jaws - a bit cheesy, eh?

It’s a bit too Disney-ish for us, but it doesn’t take away from the spectacular beach.  After a snorkel in the gin clear waters, we settle ourselves into hammocks strung between casseria pines in the powdery sand and wile away the day.

Water colors at Half Moon Cay - yes, it really does look like this with almost phosphorescent turquoise water

 Another period of foul weather is predicted, and we join over a dozen other boats seeking refuge in the protection of Rock Sound, Eleuthera.  Squalls of 40+ knots are expected along with several days of winds 20 – 30 knots.  As we are motor sailing north, we are overtaken by an early squall.  There is little increase in wind, but the rain is so heavy that the waves are beaten flat and visibility is reduced to virtually nothing.  On the plus side, the power wash has taken away months worth of salt accumulation.  At this point, safe harbor has big appeal.