Off to the Bahamas

In a winter marked by continual cold fronts, we are fortunate to have a three day weather window to make our way well into the Bahamas.  A good sized contingent leaves Marathon in the morning, motorsailing eastward in Hawk Channel before cutting through the reef and into the Gulf Stream near Islamorada. We have a light north wind but it hasn’t kicked up waves in the deep water and all seems to be going fine until we, the lead boat, encounter a strange floating object.   

Two views of the refugee boat - notice the construction from styrofoam, sticks, and a tarp

Upon approach we realize it is a deserted homemade boat about 15 feet long, constructed of blocks of Styrofoam, sticks, and a silver tarp.  There is a pile of “stuff” in the center of the boat that is difficult to identify but may include a rudimentary motor.  We call the Coast Guard, give them the location and a description. We take some pictures and agree to send them to the Coast Guard when we get internet.  It is safe to say, this is a Cuban refugee boat, one of many that have come across in recent days, all due to the coming changes in US/Cuban relations. We happily find no bodies, and while there is certainly a story behind this as the Coast Guard says it is part of an ongoing investigation, we will probably never know the outcome. But seeing the extent that people will go for freedom, it gives us a new appreciation of our country.

After getting permission from the Coast Guard to leave the refugee boat, we have an uneventful night crossing over to the Great Bahama Banks, that is, if you ignore dodging a number of freighters. In our little flotilla are several novice boats, and they are getting a bit cocky about their Gulf Stream experience.  It’s been a breeze this time, but who knows what future crossings will be like. We arrive at the southeast corner of the Berry Islands mid-afternoon, drop the anchor, and have a relaxing dinner while watching our first Bahamian sunset.  

An amazing sunset welcomes us to the Bahamas - our friends on Magnolia are approaching the anchorage

The next day we sail into Nassau, easily clear immigration and customs, and run a few errands at the nearby shopping center.  

The lighthouse greets us at the entrance to Nassau Harbor

That evening we join some cruising friends for dinner at a Chinese restaurant just down the street - not the cuisine one might expect in the Bahamas, but an outstanding meal nevertheless. 

Typically we would stay a bit longer in Nassau as it is our last bastion of first world type amenities that we will see in a while, but we have decided to get out of Dodge fast as the crime situation in Nassau is deteriorating with the State Department even putting out travel warnings for the area. Another front is descending on us with strong winds so we travel only about five miles to the mostly uninhabited Rose Island, anchoring there in the protection of the shoreline and an outlying reef.  It blows like stink.

Rose Island with threatening skies in the background

The next day we make the 40 nautical mile crossing over to the Exumas, anchoring off Hawksbill Cay in the Exuma Land and Sea Park, part of the Bahamian national park system.  The contrast to Nassau is striking.  The Cay is uninhabited with the western shore dotted with pristine sand beaches interspersed between rocky outcroppings. 

Pristine Hawksbill Cay almost all to our selves

And in contrast to Nassau, the Park offers few amenities – we have no internet or access to garbage disposal.  For boats without a watermaker, there is no fresh water available either. We are in the company of two other boats, and they join us for happy hour and the sunset on Exuberant – we all rejoice in our arrival to the Exumas.  

But, another front is on its way, so we make a beeline down to Warderick Wells, also a part of the Park.  When strong fronts come into the Bahamas, they are accompanied by west winds.  Since most of the anchorages only give shelter from easterly trades, finding protection from the west is always a challenge.  Warderick Wells is one such area with all around protection and even well maintained mooring balls. We pass our time here hiking, snorkeling, and doing the ever present boat chores, this time making repairs on one of the heads and the dinghy outboard. The setting is spectacular with rays and sharks swimming past our boat and large sand bores uncovering at low tides. 

Phenomenal array of blues looking out from Staniel Cay

A curly tail lizard suns on the rocks at Staniel - its companion actually came up and nipped at my toes

And, it blows like stink. It is a delightful place, but with the passing of the front we decide to leave for Staniel Cay where we hear the supply boat will be delivering a fresh shipment of the ever important fruits and vegetables.  We anchor in the north corner of Big Majors Spot and dinghy into the settlement and Isles General Store.  When we arrive at the store, the lack of dinghies at the dock leaves us suspicious and our concerns are validated when we are told that this week the freighter will not be coming in.  Our fresh fruits and vegetables become some worn out looking apples, a head of cabbage, and one of cauliflower – all which will have to last us another week. 

An unusually calm day at Staniel Cay making an easy trip into the market - if only they had vegies

 

Meanwhile, another front is coming through but it will be weak so we weather the west winds that never exceed 10 knots at the exposed anchorage and spend our time snorkeling the Thunderball Grotto, the site of the filming of the James Bond thriller Thunderball and an oasis of friendly tropical fish and healthy coral, all encased within an island cave. While snorkeling the grotto, I find an I-phone in a waterproof case on the bottom.  We take it into the recently expanded Staniel Cay Yacht Club which is a combination marina and all inclusive resort that is cruiser friendly, hoping to find its owner.  While splurging on “linner” (combination of lunch and dinner) at the bar, a man walks in who closely resembles the picture of the individual on the wallpaper of the phone.  We ask if he has lost his phone and are delighted to find he and his wife are the owners.  They were filming their snorkel through the grotto when they dropped the phone and gave up any hope of ever finding it.  After eating, we take our drinks out on a patio and are joined by several couples vacationing at the resort.  They are full of questions about our lifestyle and journey, but the one that really peaks our interest is whether the “green flash” actually exists and whether we have ever seen one.  With a cloudless view to the west, unobstructed by land, they are not all that uncommon. And, that evening we experience another one.  We hope our new friends also witness it.

Another series of strong fronts is approaching so we scurry north to the Park and the protected mooring field at Cambridge Cay.  Moorings will be in demand for the next week so we feel fortunate to be settled in a secure place, albeit one again without internet or any other amenities. We will remain here for a week while fronts interspersed with an occasional calm day make their way through.  Some days are overcast with west winds approaching 30 knots while other days are pleasant and sunny.   

Bell Rock on the ocean side of Cambridge Cay

Bell Rock and the ocean beach from a hike along the cliffs

The beach on one of the few days without crashing waves

Even our weather guru is saying this is one of the most unsettled periods of weather he has ever seen in the Bahamas.  On the calm days we hike the nearby Cay and snorkel a series of lovely reefs, encountering many varieties of tropical fish, including some very pesky sergeant majors begging for a hand out.  On one reef, the dead elk horn corals we witnessed several years ago are beginning to regenerate which is a hopeful sign. One evening we organize a Happy Hour at a sand island that bares at low tide.  The occupants of over 15 boats in the mooring field and nearby anchorage attend.  It is an interesting assortment of cruisers with circumnavigators to first timers and a variety of nationalities including Americans, Canadians, Germans, and a delightful French family.  We hear a plethora of languages spoken. 

A memorable happy hour at Cambridge Cay

Looking in the distance we see islands owned by the Aga Khan, Johnny Depp, and Luke Perry, but our crew of cruisers may be the most fortunate of all to enjoy a special evening like this. 

Sunset as one of many fronts passes through

And between the pleasant times at Cambridge, it blows like stink.

So our message to those of you in the northlands – please keep your fronts to yourselves; they are keeping us in isolated places and curtailing much of our exploration of the Exumas!   

Hanging Out in Marathon

We have been in Marathon for over a month, but the time seems to have flown by.  Mooring field neighbors observe that we are never on the boat.  With great biking and accessible beaches during the day and a remarkable music scene during the evenings, it is probably an accurate observation. And we are enjoying a tropical climate that propagates a remarkable variety of wildlife.  Pelicans amuse us with their antics, 

Pelicans with interesting reflections in the water

and Ibis graze in the nearby park. Iguanas are proliferating everywhere, to the point there is actually an eradication program to downsize the population.  Dolphins swim in our bow wakes, and the canal into the mooring field dinghy dock has become home to a mother and baby manatee. 

The mother and baby manatees hanging out near the fresh water hose

Some say manatees are beautiful, but I think interesting is a better description of these docile mammals

The high point of our stay in Marathon is the visit of both of our sons and their families.  We found a rental house within dinghy and biking distance of our boat, so accommodations are nothing but plush for our guests. With a pool in the back yard, there is plenty of splashing for both young and old. Baby Isabella took her first swim with a little apprehension at first. 

Isabella seems a little unsure of herself the first day in the pool.

We spent several days with the entire crew sailing the boat, either within Hawk Channel or out to the reef for some snorkeling and swimming, 

Everyone got into swimming and snorkeling at the reef although, if there was an audio feed, you would see that Isabella DID NOT LIKE HER LIFEJACKET!!!

But playing in the cockpit while under sail was a totally different experience

and we enjoyed playing in the sand at beaches near the rental house or at Bahia Honda, a state park on the other end of the Seven Mile Bridge. We even hauled everyone down to Key West for some touring and sunset at Mallory Square with its plethora of street performers.

The highlight of the family’s visit was a day spent at the Dolphin Research Center.  This is a small, low-key research facility just outside Marathon and is nothing like amusement parks such as Sea World.  The dolphins (and some seals) are kept in natural pens that are part of Florida Bay.  The few visitors are free to walk between all the pens.  At times, trainers are working with some of the dolphins 

Several trainers are working simultaneously in one pool

The affection between trainer and trainee is readily apparent

while elsewhere guests have opportunities to interact with the dolphins, and in still other areas, researchers are studying dolphin communication and social development. The staff is very friendly and willingly takes time to describe what they are doing and answer any questions. During our visit grandsons Will and Daniel and their Dad took part in a 45 minute session titled “Play with the Dolphins” where they had the opportunity touch a dolphin, give it commands to do certain behaviors, and play “retrieve” with several of the dolphins.  At the end, the dolphins brought each child a gift of a pebble and a mangrove leaf.   

Everyone gets a chance to pet a dolphin

Will's smile is proof that this was a very special day

While many believe these behaviors are just a result of a reward system, in reality, many of the dolphins don’t even want their food rewards; rather, they are truly playful animals and enjoy interacting with humans. But for me, the special moments were sitting quietly by one of the pools and having one or more dolphins actually seek me out. They will vocalize to the point of engaging you in a conversation. Their intelligence and social skills make dolphins exceptionally interesting animals, and the experience leaves us appreciating even more our encounters with them in the wild.

So…the family has left, the boat has been reprovisioned, and we are saying our “goodbyes” to our many cruising friends who will spend their entire winter here in Marathon. It is difficult to leave such a delightful harbor, but it appears we will have a nice weather window to depart for the Bahamas, and a good weather window is just something you don’t pass up.

Christmas Down South

Our time in Vero flies by. After a lovely and delicious Thanksgiving dinner with friends under swaying palms (accompanied, unfortunately, by voracious no-seeums) we are back at work on Exuberant.  Burt undertakes the huge task of refinishing the companionway of the boat.  That includes burning off years’ worth of varnish, removing the sliding hatch and accompanying hardware, sanding the teak down to bare wood, and applying ten coats of two-part varnish. Two weeks later the finished teak absolutely glows; the quality is worthy of a professional, but in the meantime, we also have a boat full of sanding dust and varnish fumes.  Cruising isn’t always a “paradise experience”.

With the boat reassembled and well provisioned, we make an overnight passage down the coast, arriving at Key Biscayne and No Name Harbor the following noon.  It is a Sunday, so we anchor outside the state park harbor as inside is pure chaos with locals vying for every square inch of anchoring room and salsa music blaring from impressive stereo systems. Trust me, you won’t hear any English spoken here.   

Skyline of Miami's South Beach as seen from the anchorage just outside No Name harbor

The next morning we motor inside as the last of the weekend revelers departs and score a prime anchoring position. 

No Name Harbor with only a few boats - at some times it seems you can walk across the harbor on all the boats.

We want to be inside as Burt needs to snorkel on the bottom of the boat and change out the zinc on the prop; this is the first time we have seen clear water with no current in ages. With the task complete we spend the remainder of our visit bicycling through the park and the lush, upscale community of Key Biscayne. And as the harbor begins to fill with more boats and swing room becomes minimal, we are anxious to get underway before there is an unfortunate crunch of fiberglass hulls.

It is cool and breezy with another cold front descending upon us, but that makes for excellent sailing further down the Keys.   

Burt is bundled up for the trip into the Keys - it has been a surprisingly cool winter-not what you would expect for South Florida weather

We leave No Name Harbor at first light, get bounced a bit as we head out into Hawk Channel, but then have a memorable sail that makes the Keys so special. Once in the lee of the islands, the water goes flat, the wind gusts into the mid-20’s, and we are making close to 8 knots of speed over clear turquoise water on a beam reach.  It is utterly heavenly! 70 nautical miles later we drop anchor in the protection of Long Key, have a leisurely grilled dinner, and watch a spectacular sunset that is typical of the Keys. 

Sunset off Long Key - and yes, I think I saw a green flash despite the clouds at the horizon

The next day it is an easy motor sail the remainder of the way to Boot Key Harbor on Marathon Key.  We pick up a mooring ball in the crowded harbor and are pleased we have arrived before all 226 spaces have been taken, as this is a very popular location for cruisers.

We will be in Marathon for over a month. And what will keep us here so long?  Burt still has a few maintenance tasks before we feel prepared to head to the Bahamas. I have a sewing project, covering some cushions in the cockpit, and the material awaits me in the mail room.  We try to find time each day for a fun activity.  Sometimes we dinghy to Sombrero Beach, a ten minute ride in the dinghy through mangrove lined channels and past some of the lovely homes in the Sombrero neighborhood.   

A portion of Sombrero Beach which is actually a city park

Other times we get a bit more exercise by riding our bikes nine miles out and back along Highway 1 and on the old Seven Mile Bridge to Pigeon Key, home to Henry Flagler’s work camp that supported the construction of the original bridge and now is an historical landmark. 

The end of the bike path to Pigeon Key, seen in the background

And why you can't go any further along the bridge, although this section has been used in movie sets

Along the way we frequently stop to see what critters inhabit the clear waters below.  On our first trip out we see three sharks, the largest being around 7 feet long, one huge spotted eagle ray, several barracuda, many tarpon, an assortment of tropical fish, and two iguanas resting on the bridge abutment. 

One of the iguanas we saw, now considered like squirrels in the Key - there is actually an abatement program for ones which become nuisances

When we return to our dinghy, two manatees are lollygagging near the dinghy dock. Not all the wild life in the Keys is human! We often gather with friends who are passing through this harbor or plan to spend their entire winter here. We are beginning to think the music scene in Marathon is surpassing that of Key West.  Many of the musicians who play at the local venues reside on boats in the harbor.  Eric Stone (of the Eric Stone Band, made famous by links to Latts and Atts ((now Cruising Outpost)) magazine and appearances at many national boat shows) owns a waterfront restaurant and features talent from all over the country. Several other establishments have music almost all nights of the week, so we have plenty to choose from.

But it is also the Christmas season and, while different from a northern Christmas, we still get into the spirit.  Our boat is decorated with solar powered LED lights on the exterior, and we have a small lit Christmas tree in the salon. One evening we attend a performance of the Messiah at a local church with community wide talent participating – it is surprisingly professional - and we bike back to the dinghy in the dark, admiring all the Christmas lights in the nearby park. Another evening we are invited to a friend’s boat for a holiday party and a prime view of the Boot Key Harbor Lighted Boat Parade. 

Lots of fun in the boat parade

And finally, friends with a car drive us to the local Catholic Church which has transformed their prayer garden into a Christmas fantasy – a gift to the greater community. Unlike most light displays, this is a lovely and extensive tropical garden with winding pathways and water features, artistically enhanced by millions of lights – breath-taking!

The fairy tale scene at San Paulo Church's garden

An arch of blue lights leads into another hidden garden

Red lights are chosen to highlight this red hued croton

We will remain in Marathon until mid-January and the next appropriate weather window to sail to the Bahamas. In less than a week, both of our sons and their families will be joining us for a week in a house we rented in the Sombrero neighborhood.  When you are always on the move in far flung locales, it is hard to gather family together, so we are especially looking forward to this time to reconnect and to show our grandchildren the wonders of this world which we explore.

So, in the spirit of the season, we want to wish all of you a very Merry Christmas and all the best in the coming year! 

From the magical gardens of San Paulo, we wish you a Merry Christmas

Exploring the South – Part 2

We have an uneventful 26 hour ocean passage south from Charleston, but when we arrive in the morning at the St. Mary’s River inlet, we find all the docks in nearby Fernandina Beach have been taken.  This would not normally be a problem as we enjoy anchoring out, but what may be the worst storm of the season is predicted for the next day.  We decide to anchor on the west side of Cumberland Island and spend the remainder of the day walking through live oak shaded sand streets 

Live Oaks and Spanish Moss provide a canopy while palmettos cover the ground

Imagine having a beach like this all to yourself

and along the ten mile, totally unpopulated ocean side beach.  Cumberland Island is part of the National Park Service, and it is being preserved as an intact barrier island. Wild horses and armadillos populate the interior,

One of the wild horses grazing in the dunes

and shells and other ocean debris decorate the beach which has almost as many hoof prints as foot prints. The sand is like white powder and rivals the best of the Bahamas. 

The strong winds have sculpted the powdery sand around this solitary shell

The Carnegie family once had a vacation home/mansion on the island, and its ruins anchor the southern end of the island.

The ruins speak of a much grander time

That night the wind begins to howl and by morning our supposedly sheltered anchorage is full of waves, wind blown spray, and streaks of foam on the water.  We are rocking and rolling, and the wind continues to build – we see a gust of 45 knots (over 50 miles per hour for the non-nautical).  At one point we begin to slowly drag or, perhaps better phrased, slide towards shore.  We pull anchor and move to a location where the bottom is less scoured by the fast moving tidal currents, and we fortunately stay put.  The temperature is taking a nose-dive too; we will see lows at night darn close to freezing, something that’s not fun when you don’t have central heating.  But further north, we hear the “S” word and know we are fortunate to be able to spend Halloween weekend in a slightly warmer climate.

After the front passes, we make a several mile hop down to Fernandina Beach at the north end of Amelia Island. The docks have emptied out, but we choose to take a mooring a little further out. We are finally in Florida; our arrival marks another milestone in our quest for warmer weather.  This is our first visit to Amelia Island, and we enjoy strolling Fernandina Beach’s historic waterfront and biking along the interior creeks and oceanside beaches. One day we venture over to Fort Clinch State Park. After entering the park, a three mile live oak shaded road meanders out to the fort making for some delightful biking.  Fort Clinch is one of the best preserved forts we have ever visited. No wonder, it was never fired upon since completion during the Civil War. The brick work is superb, 

An arched pathway leads to the fort's interior

and its cannons provide an imposing defense over the St. Mary’s River inlet. 

Mighty cannons from Fort Clinch keep guard over the St. Mary's River

By today’s standards the fort is obsolete, but we suspect the St. Mary’s River still has some impressive yet undetectable defenses in place as just upstream lies the King’s Bay Submarine Naval Base.

We take advantage of a period of calm weather and make one last day sail down the coast to St. Augustine. As we exit the St. Mary’s River, the Overstreet Pride, with nets on full display, motors past. 

This vessel is on a mission

Commercial fishing is a mainstay of the economy here, and we are able to purchase fresh shrimp right at the docks in Fernandina. The day trip to St. Augustine would be unremarkable except about half way there, our chartplotter gives up the ghost.  We stew over the malfunction since the entrance to St. Augustine is not straight forward, and like most cruisers, we have become very dependent on our electronics. Yet, all seasoned sailors should be able to navigate via traditional means.  We take a deep breath, get out the paper charts and plotting tools, and safely make our way through the entrance. In full disclosure, we have another chart plotter below decks along with the ability to navigate via computer, but this did provide good practice in case all our electronics died simultaneously.

St. Augustine is always an enjoyable stop. Known as American’s First City, some of its streets date back over 400 years.  We stroll past historical buildings on cobbled alleys 

Shapes and color make this a charming entrance to someone's courtyard

and take the opportunity to tour several sites.  First stop is Flagler College, housed partly in the original Hotel Ponce de Leon.  Henry Flagler made his fortune as a partner in the old Standard Oil Company.  Later in life, he became the original “resort developer” by first constructing a rail system to bring tourists to Florida and then building a series of elegant hotels and resorts along the coast to entice the northeast upper class to winter there.  For years it catered to the rich and famous but eventually, by the mid-1900’s, fell into hard times. Rather than allow the exquisite buildings and grounds to be razed, the Flagler heirs founded a liberal arts college in the facilities with part of the tuition fees contributing to needed restorations.  Today the college is thriving and this architectural gem is often open for public tours.

The dome of the rotunda that was once the reception area for the hotel

Frescos and Tiffany windows in what is now the college cafeteria - this room houses the largest intact collection of Tiffany windows in the world

We spend another afternoon touring the waterfront fort, Castillo de San Marcos, with fellow cruisers Sally and Ted. With construction beginning in 1672, it is still amazingly in tact. 

View from a corner bastion over the north mooring field with the Bridge of Lions in the distance

Somehow Ted works his magic and the next thing we know, we are taking a personal tour with one of the National Park Service historians. Our guide, Kevin, is a wealth of knowledge, and we leave with a much better understanding of the history of this region. 

Sally, Ted Kevin, and the crew of Exuberant - a requisite picture after an amazing tour

After we say our good-byes, a voice from an adjoining room asks “Would you like to see some interesting tools?” Another costumed interpreter, this time a volunteer, has collected a number of engineering tools of the era including something called a Gunther Scale which, after some study, we realize is the precursor to the modern slide rule. 

The Gunther Scale on display - instruction freely given by the interpreter

It has indeed been an interesting and informative afternoon.

We reluctantly leave St. Augustine for several days of motoring down the ICW, stopping at Cocoa for two days of exploration. The guys all love Cocoa as it is home to a remarkable hardware store. The winding aisles are packed with every imaginable tool in every possible size with, for example, some crescent wrenches over three feet long.  And everything is incased in heavy dust.  You will never find anything on your own, but the helpful staff takes great pleasure in seeking out hidden treasures. The next day we head over to Cocoa Beach on the local bus.  First stop is Ron Jon’s, a huge, world famous surfing shop that actually attracts bus tours. Just down the street is the Cocoa Beach fishing pier where perched over the water you can catch lunch while the surfers below catch a wave. 

Memorable sign at the Cocoa Beach Fishing Pier

But it is not all fun and games. While at Cocoa, Burt becomes concerned that the zinc on our prop may be wearing too fast.  The water of the ICW here is murky and unappealing so snorkeling the boat bottom is not a choice to relish. We have a problem and fortunately, with two engineers present (Burt and our friend Anthony), the boys are determined to invent a solution. Supplied with a section of PVC pipe, saran wrap, zip lock bags, and the ever present duct tape, they proceed to construct a “prop scope”. The ensuing chatter and intermittent failures make for an entertaining afternoon. Fortunately, they experience a brief period of success and find the zinc is just fine, but it is safe to say the “prop scope” is not ready for prime time.

Geniuses at work - wouldn't advise buying stock in this concept!

We motor a bit further south to Melbourne and spend a long weekend at another Seven Seas Cruisers Association Gam, learning a few new tidbits and gathering with many cruising friends that are also racing the cold south. And finally, it is on to Vero Beach for a longer stay to do some significant projects, serious provisioning, and trips to the dentist. We know once we leave Vero for the Keys and eventually the Bahamas, we will not have access to big box stores and bulk provisioning. Least we have all work and no play, we also socialize with friends who have settled on shore in Vero, friends on the nearby moored boats, and the over 200 friends with whom we will celebrate Thanksgiving at the community and marina sponsored Cruisers’ Thanksgiving. Tomorrow we will have much for which to be thankful.