Tuesday, November 4, 2014

Exploring the South, Part 1



It’s raining cats and dogs…..and frogs here in Carolina Beach.  The next morning as we prepare to cast off our mooring we find a little, bright green tree frog on deck.  
Pretty cute, but dangerous???

 How it got there one can only imagine.  But, since it looks amazingly similar to the poisonous tree frogs on display at the North Carolina Aquarium, we decide it needs to go for a swim. Now frog-less, we head down the ICW, overnighting at North Myrtle Beach and the Waccamaw River, 
Moss draped live oaks, cypress, and remnant rice fields edge the Waccamaw River

And a bald eagle soars overhead
and continuing on to Georgetown, South Carolina where they are holding their annual Wooden Boat Show. It is the second largest wooden boat show on the East Coast, and we are impressed with what is on display.  The craftsmanship in some of the recently constructed boats is extraordinary. 
Hard to imagine this beaut out on the water, but the owner actually does use it.

Out on the docks we are delighted to find Gabriel, a fifty year old wooden sloop we encountered last winter in the Bahamas.  And, we are happy to announce, Gabriel won the awards for Best of Show and Best of Class – our friends may be getting swelled heads from the notoriety!
Gabriel - winner of "Best of Show"



From Georgetown, it is a long day’s sail on the ocean to Charleston Harbor. We arrive at our anchorage just off the City Marina’s Megadock and immediately begin to gawk at the vessels tied up there. There’s a replica of Atlantic built in 2010.  The original Atlantic was constructed around 1905 and she held the trans-Atlantic crossing record until well into the 1990’s. She is at the dock for some polishing and varnish work – work we would not enjoy as there is much varnished teak on deck including all wooden blocks in the rigging and wooden booms and gaffs.   
Almost 200 feet of speed and classic beauty

Right down the dock is the 332 foot motor yacht Attasea, owned by a self-made billionaire. Several days later a helicopter lands on one of its two helicopter pads. 
Attasea - note the helicopter on aft deck - there is room for another on the foredeck

We do feel pretty small here on Exuberant, but that doesn’t detract from all the fun one can have in Charleston. We take daily bike rides through the historic neighborhoods.    
Cobbled streets take you past homes over 200 years old
Hidden gardens become visible through an arch in the bricks walls

A stately home along the Battery
Charleston is unique as the pre-civil war buildings have been preserved, and people actually live in the central downtown area. One day we take the National Park Service boat out to Fort Sumter for a tour. The Fort was heavily damaged during the Civil War but there has been enough restoration to preserve its basic structure and buildings’ foundations.   
Rows of cannons keep watch over the harbor entrance

The view from Fort Sumter back towards Charleston
Several days later we cross the harbor on a water taxi and take a long bike ride out to Sullivan’s Island and another historic fort, Fort Moultrie.  Forts Sumter and Moultrie, along with some smaller batteries, guarded Charleston Harbor from attack from the sea.  Moultrie’s origins date back to the Revolutionary War, and it was in service through World War II. Structures and foundations illustrate its role through almost 200 years of potential invasion of the homeland. 
Interior grounds of Fort Moutrie
 
After touring the Fort, we need some sustenance so we stop at Poe’s Tavern in the resort village of Sullivan’s Island for an alfresco lunch.  Poe may not have slept there, but he was stationed at the Fort for over a year. We bicycle back to the taxi pickup and admire the aircraft carrier, destroyer, and submarine docked nearby at Patriot’s Point while awaiting our ride back to the central city. 
Aircraft carrier Yorktown with our cross harbor water taxi dwarfed in the foreground
The knife edge bow of the destroyer, again dwarfed by the aircraft carrier

Between times we enjoy meals out and happy hours with many friends who have also found themselves in Charleston.

Leaving this wonderful city is difficult, but we have a weather window to go out into the Atlantic and make our way to the St. Mary’s River which forms the boarder between Georgia and Florida.  Twenty six uneventful hours later, we drop anchor off of Cumberland Island, Georgia, spitting distance from Florida.