Weird Winter Weather in the Exumas – Part 2

Regatta is over, and the weather pattern has changed to strong trade winds from the southeast.  In previous years, the regatta has sponsored a rally to Long Island about 35 miles further south east.  Our friends Ron and Karen on Sea Dancer have always organized this, but this year they have retired from cruising. To perpetuate the tradition, we have volunteered to oversee the sailing portion of the rally while our crew from the Round-the-Island Race will be in charge of the land arrangements.  It turns out to be a huge undertaking as some of the infrastructure on Long Island that facilitated cruisers is no longer available. At one point we have over 100 boats signed up to participate. Also, the weather is not cooperating, and we are having difficulty determining a departure date due to persistent strong SE winds and a SE destination. Finally, rather than run a race from George Town to Long Island, we pick the mildest day within a week and plan to motor the distance and, upon arrival, schedule a make up race in the protected water just outside our destination.  The change in plans and last minute departure date whittle our flotilla down to 41 boats, four of which turn back when they realize it won’t be a totally enjoyable trip under motor.  As it turns out, the trip becomes more and more pleasant the further we go as the surrounding cays and sand bores almost negate the waves. And it is a gorgeous trip through brilliant, glowing turquoise waters unlike anything else in the Bahamas.  

The glowing water near the uninhabited White Cay Bank

The group arrives in good spirits and enjoys a welcome Happy Hour at the local regatta center with a Rake and Scrape Band of national reputation. 

The next day we put on a race in flat waters and moderate winds, a difficult task as our committee boats (both trawlers) have decided not to brave the weather.  Exuberant becomes the starting mark, and we set a turning mark with our dinghy and an anchored fender just in the nick of time. Fifteen boats, including one sailing dinghy, tackle the simple course and cross the finish line with whoops and hollers as the sailing is utterly delightful.  

The boats are off and the sailing dinghy at the rear keeps up pretty well despite having to bail the entire course.

And back they come on a tight reach.

The kids on this boat were having a blast although we doubt they contributed much ballast.

That night we have a “trophy dinner” at the regatta center and the previous night’s band shows up again to play for free as they are having such a good time.  Hosting a group of cruisers such as ourselves is a big deal for Long Island as it is sparsely populated and off the normal cruising track; our presence is a real boost to their economy.

We chill out the next day as many of the cruisers take a bus tour of the island, something we have done several times before.  That evening 80 of us cram into one school bus and travel 30 miles to Stella Maris, a classy resort at the north end of the island.  We are here to have a candle light dinner in a large cave on the property.  We walk down a lit path to the cave entrance and are astonished to see hundreds of candles illuminating the cave interior.   

The walk down to the cave with the path illuminated by beer bottles molded into the concrete and filled with kerosene and a home made wick.

There are slabs of stone set on the ground and masonry benches in place around the “tables”. 

the interior of the cave where groups gathered around stone tables for dinner.

In one corner, a band is playing “tasteful” music and in another are a slew of bats hanging in a darken hole, the candle light and several camp fires keeping the bats in their place.  The dinner is excellent, and we utterly enjoy this unusual event. The next day we have a nice sail back to George Town while many of the boats who have never visited Long Island before stay for a few more days’ exploration.

Our weather guru foresees a change in the weather pattern to more settled weather by mid-March and that is good news for us.  Meanwhile, in George Town, we wile away the days, walking the ocean front beaches,

The ocean side beaches remain mostly unpopulated - note only one brave swimmer in the water.

All to ourselves on this glorious day

My favorite spot on the north end of Stocking Island with a "hot tube" and great quantities of miniture shells for collecting.

doing chores, partaking in yoga or water aerobics, and spending afternoons on the beach at Chat and Chill, a nearby beach bar, where cruisers gather each day at 2 pm to play volleyball, dominos (a traditional cruisers’ game), or weave baskets. 

One of several sand volleyball courts where the cruisers and other guests play fun volleyball, which would be better called funny volleyball.

The hard core dominoes players

Some of the basketmakers at work

A selection of pine needle baskets I have made this season - these differ from the silver palm baskets more common here - they use Carolina Long Leaf pine needles and offer more creative options in the construction.

Children enjoy tree swings, swimming off the shallow beach, and petting the resident sting rays. On Sunday mornings we attend Beach Church under the whispering pines where adults are seated on picnic benches while the children sit high in the trees. There are happy hours and dinghy raft-ups on occasions 

One dinghy raft-up took place just off our bow.  At this point most of the dinghies have departed but at the height there were over 80 dinghies celebrating the sunset with libations and shared hors d'ouvres.

and on Sunday evenings we head to St. Frances Resort for Trivia night.  At the final, “Grand Championship” night, we are teamed with another couple who prove to be strong trivia players. We end up tying for first place, losing in the second tie-breaker, and walking out with bottles of wine and shark bobble head trophies – pretty amusing!

So, with a few days’ notice of settled weather we begin preparations to leave George Town with trips to the laundry and grocery store, and stops to pick up odds and ends before leaving this relatively civilized harbor. We say good-bye to the many locals and our fellow cruisers going different directions until next year when the cruising hoards again descend upon George Town.