Weird Winter Weather in the Exumas – Part 2

Regatta is over, and the weather pattern has changed to strong trade winds from the southeast.  In previous years, the regatta has sponsored a rally to Long Island about 35 miles further south east.  Our friends Ron and Karen on Sea Dancer have always organized this, but this year they have retired from cruising. To perpetuate the tradition, we have volunteered to oversee the sailing portion of the rally while our crew from the Round-the-Island Race will be in charge of the land arrangements.  It turns out to be a huge undertaking as some of the infrastructure on Long Island that facilitated cruisers is no longer available. At one point we have over 100 boats signed up to participate. Also, the weather is not cooperating, and we are having difficulty determining a departure date due to persistent strong SE winds and a SE destination. Finally, rather than run a race from George Town to Long Island, we pick the mildest day within a week and plan to motor the distance and, upon arrival, schedule a make up race in the protected water just outside our destination.  The change in plans and last minute departure date whittle our flotilla down to 41 boats, four of which turn back when they realize it won’t be a totally enjoyable trip under motor.  As it turns out, the trip becomes more and more pleasant the further we go as the surrounding cays and sand bores almost negate the waves. And it is a gorgeous trip through brilliant, glowing turquoise waters unlike anything else in the Bahamas.  

The glowing water near the uninhabited White Cay Bank

The group arrives in good spirits and enjoys a welcome Happy Hour at the local regatta center with a Rake and Scrape Band of national reputation. 

The next day we put on a race in flat waters and moderate winds, a difficult task as our committee boats (both trawlers) have decided not to brave the weather.  Exuberant becomes the starting mark, and we set a turning mark with our dinghy and an anchored fender just in the nick of time. Fifteen boats, including one sailing dinghy, tackle the simple course and cross the finish line with whoops and hollers as the sailing is utterly delightful.  

The boats are off and the sailing dinghy at the rear keeps up pretty well despite having to bail the entire course.

And back they come on a tight reach.

The kids on this boat were having a blast although we doubt they contributed much ballast.

That night we have a “trophy dinner” at the regatta center and the previous night’s band shows up again to play for free as they are having such a good time.  Hosting a group of cruisers such as ourselves is a big deal for Long Island as it is sparsely populated and off the normal cruising track; our presence is a real boost to their economy.

We chill out the next day as many of the cruisers take a bus tour of the island, something we have done several times before.  That evening 80 of us cram into one school bus and travel 30 miles to Stella Maris, a classy resort at the north end of the island.  We are here to have a candle light dinner in a large cave on the property.  We walk down a lit path to the cave entrance and are astonished to see hundreds of candles illuminating the cave interior.   

The walk down to the cave with the path illuminated by beer bottles molded into the concrete and filled with kerosene and a home made wick.

There are slabs of stone set on the ground and masonry benches in place around the “tables”. 

the interior of the cave where groups gathered around stone tables for dinner.

In one corner, a band is playing “tasteful” music and in another are a slew of bats hanging in a darken hole, the candle light and several camp fires keeping the bats in their place.  The dinner is excellent, and we utterly enjoy this unusual event. The next day we have a nice sail back to George Town while many of the boats who have never visited Long Island before stay for a few more days’ exploration.

Our weather guru foresees a change in the weather pattern to more settled weather by mid-March and that is good news for us.  Meanwhile, in George Town, we wile away the days, walking the ocean front beaches,

The ocean side beaches remain mostly unpopulated - note only one brave swimmer in the water.

All to ourselves on this glorious day

My favorite spot on the north end of Stocking Island with a "hot tube" and great quantities of miniture shells for collecting.

doing chores, partaking in yoga or water aerobics, and spending afternoons on the beach at Chat and Chill, a nearby beach bar, where cruisers gather each day at 2 pm to play volleyball, dominos (a traditional cruisers’ game), or weave baskets. 

One of several sand volleyball courts where the cruisers and other guests play fun volleyball, which would be better called funny volleyball.

The hard core dominoes players

Some of the basketmakers at work

A selection of pine needle baskets I have made this season - these differ from the silver palm baskets more common here - they use Carolina Long Leaf pine needles and offer more creative options in the construction.

Children enjoy tree swings, swimming off the shallow beach, and petting the resident sting rays. On Sunday mornings we attend Beach Church under the whispering pines where adults are seated on picnic benches while the children sit high in the trees. There are happy hours and dinghy raft-ups on occasions 

One dinghy raft-up took place just off our bow.  At this point most of the dinghies have departed but at the height there were over 80 dinghies celebrating the sunset with libations and shared hors d'ouvres.

and on Sunday evenings we head to St. Frances Resort for Trivia night.  At the final, “Grand Championship” night, we are teamed with another couple who prove to be strong trivia players. We end up tying for first place, losing in the second tie-breaker, and walking out with bottles of wine and shark bobble head trophies – pretty amusing!

So, with a few days’ notice of settled weather we begin preparations to leave George Town with trips to the laundry and grocery store, and stops to pick up odds and ends before leaving this relatively civilized harbor. We say good-bye to the many locals and our fellow cruisers going different directions until next year when the cruising hoards again descend upon George Town.

Weird Winter Weather in the Exumas – Part1

The succession of fronts in the Exumas just keep coming.  We get a few days’ break in the weather and scurry down to Blackpoint Settlement, a small town of several hundred residents and a locale that is very accommodating to cruisers.   

The anchorage at Blackpoint

Newly built vacation houses at Blackpoint - this is a comparatively industrious community for the Exumas

The laundromat is the best in the Bahamas as Ida, the proprietor, takes great pride in keeping it spotless, newly painted, and in good working order, an oddity in these areas. 

Assisting one of the local sailors with rebuilding his traditional racing sloop, Seahorse

We celebrate Super Bowl Sunday at Scorpio’s Bar and Grill with a mixture of locals and cruisers.  It is a “spirited” evening with an outstanding buffet dinner of traditional Bahamian fare. And you just can’t leave Blackpoint without a loaf or two of Lorraine’s mother’s famous coconut bread.

We hike to the local blow hole which sends up plumes of spray

And why is the blow hole blowing?  Just look at the ocean waves on a windy day.

But later we have a classic Bahamian sunset

But leave we must as another significant front is bearing down on us. We had hoped to spend the weekend at Little Farmer’s Cay to attend their homecoming and traditional Bahamian sloop regatta, but the weather just won’t allow it.  Even some of the locals from Blackpoint will not attend as the winds will be too strong for their tender boats. We have a nice sail south on the banks to Musha Cay where we anchor in front of David Copperfield’s resort compound.  It is an idyllic tropical setting where guests can pay somewhere around $10,000 per day to soak up the luxury. 

The beach front of David Copperfield's resort on Musha Cay

Copperfield owns Musha along with nearby Rudder Cay where he also has a private home.  The next day we continue on to the protected harbor at George Town where we will stay for an extended period of time.

The decision to camp out in George Town proves to be wise and most of the boats in the northern Exumas are making a similar choice, resulting in over 300 boats in Elizabeth Harbor.   

Wind and waves pound the ocean side of Stocking Island which forms the harbor at George Town

The weather has become increasingly difficult as every 48 hours fronts pass through with winds close to gale force, even in our protected anchorage. 

The storm bears down on our anchorage

One night the wind makes an abrupt switch in direction and blows into the 30’s.  The boat to windward of us has let out additional chain, and now it blows back on to us.  The only escape is to begin letting out additional scope on our boat until both boats come to rest less than a boat length apart – all this is done in the dark of night.  For several days we are pinned between the up wind boat and another to our lee, unable to extricate ourselves as the windward boat is directly over our anchor and rode.  Another fierce storm rolls in a few days later but during daylight hours.  After the initial blasts of wind, you can look in any direction and see at least one boat dragging.  Most of the boats are able to self rescue but two catamarans have broken loose and either have inoperable engines or have fouled their engines with anchor rode.  The dinghy brigade springs into action as ten or more dinghies attempt to corral the drifting boats before they cause additional damage to themselves or to surrounding boats. 

Burt, in the dinghy, heads off to help rescue a dragging boat

One has pinned its stern to the side of a large trawler and is causing considerable damage to fiberglass and stainless. I watch with binoculars as Burt and our friend Anthony try to maneuver the two boats apart and help the stunned crews re-anchor.  At least this time there are two people in the dinghy as the waves and wind would make this dangerous single-handed operation. 

In the midst of the storms we are sitting in the cockpit and happen to glance back to notice the motor is no longer on our dinghy. Burt left it in the up position and with the wave action and newly greased fastening bolts, it has worked it way free and is dangling behind the dinghy, submersed in the water and attached only by a backup lanyard.  Panic ensues as our dinghy and motor are essential to our cruising life.  In three foot waves we attach the harness of the motor to the lift and bring it back on board.  Burt starts tearing it apart while I get on the VHF radio to solicit information on how one services a submerged engine.  With less than two hours of daylight left we manage to change the oil, remove the spark plug, rinse every conceivable crevice with fresh water, reassemble the entire engine, and, hallelujah, it starts back up and runs for the recommended half hour.  We are utterly exhausted and pretty unnerved.  The next day Burt repeats the entire process along with rinsing and treating all the electrical connections.  We are back in running order, but now the bolt toggles are tied together so that they can’t accidentally unscrew.  

George Town is famous for its annual Cruiser’s Regatta, and this year we have become involved in the racing portion – Burt as statistician and I as general help.  After re-scheduling around inclement weather, we serve on the committee boat for the in-harbor race. Several days later we race Exuberant in the Round-the-Island race in perfect conditions.  It’s a nail-bitter as we sail through the skinny water of the western harbor (several shallower draft boats actually went aground) and out into the deep sapphire waters of Exuma Sound.  Our boat speed is great, and we’re having a lot of fun with our novice crew, taking several head to toe dousings of water while hiking on the rail.  But, we choose the wrong side of the course and lose distance on the boats we had already passed.  Bottom line – we came in 5^th in our class but have the distinction of beating the boat which historically wins this race.   

After the race our crew celebrates with the Bahamian flag in the background.  Included are Sue and Al from Nova Scotia and Phil from Maine.

 

Boats (including ours) anchored off the beach at Chat and Chill - just a small portion of the 350 boats in the harbor for the Regatta.

Off to the Bahamas

In a winter marked by continual cold fronts, we are fortunate to have a three day weather window to make our way well into the Bahamas.  A good sized contingent leaves Marathon in the morning, motorsailing eastward in Hawk Channel before cutting through the reef and into the Gulf Stream near Islamorada. We have a light north wind but it hasn’t kicked up waves in the deep water and all seems to be going fine until we, the lead boat, encounter a strange floating object.   

Two views of the refugee boat - notice the construction from styrofoam, sticks, and a tarp

Upon approach we realize it is a deserted homemade boat about 15 feet long, constructed of blocks of Styrofoam, sticks, and a silver tarp.  There is a pile of “stuff” in the center of the boat that is difficult to identify but may include a rudimentary motor.  We call the Coast Guard, give them the location and a description. We take some pictures and agree to send them to the Coast Guard when we get internet.  It is safe to say, this is a Cuban refugee boat, one of many that have come across in recent days, all due to the coming changes in US/Cuban relations. We happily find no bodies, and while there is certainly a story behind this as the Coast Guard says it is part of an ongoing investigation, we will probably never know the outcome. But seeing the extent that people will go for freedom, it gives us a new appreciation of our country.

After getting permission from the Coast Guard to leave the refugee boat, we have an uneventful night crossing over to the Great Bahama Banks, that is, if you ignore dodging a number of freighters. In our little flotilla are several novice boats, and they are getting a bit cocky about their Gulf Stream experience.  It’s been a breeze this time, but who knows what future crossings will be like. We arrive at the southeast corner of the Berry Islands mid-afternoon, drop the anchor, and have a relaxing dinner while watching our first Bahamian sunset.  

An amazing sunset welcomes us to the Bahamas - our friends on Magnolia are approaching the anchorage

The next day we sail into Nassau, easily clear immigration and customs, and run a few errands at the nearby shopping center.  

The lighthouse greets us at the entrance to Nassau Harbor

That evening we join some cruising friends for dinner at a Chinese restaurant just down the street - not the cuisine one might expect in the Bahamas, but an outstanding meal nevertheless. 

Typically we would stay a bit longer in Nassau as it is our last bastion of first world type amenities that we will see in a while, but we have decided to get out of Dodge fast as the crime situation in Nassau is deteriorating with the State Department even putting out travel warnings for the area. Another front is descending on us with strong winds so we travel only about five miles to the mostly uninhabited Rose Island, anchoring there in the protection of the shoreline and an outlying reef.  It blows like stink.

Rose Island with threatening skies in the background

The next day we make the 40 nautical mile crossing over to the Exumas, anchoring off Hawksbill Cay in the Exuma Land and Sea Park, part of the Bahamian national park system.  The contrast to Nassau is striking.  The Cay is uninhabited with the western shore dotted with pristine sand beaches interspersed between rocky outcroppings. 

Pristine Hawksbill Cay almost all to our selves

And in contrast to Nassau, the Park offers few amenities – we have no internet or access to garbage disposal.  For boats without a watermaker, there is no fresh water available either. We are in the company of two other boats, and they join us for happy hour and the sunset on Exuberant – we all rejoice in our arrival to the Exumas.  

But, another front is on its way, so we make a beeline down to Warderick Wells, also a part of the Park.  When strong fronts come into the Bahamas, they are accompanied by west winds.  Since most of the anchorages only give shelter from easterly trades, finding protection from the west is always a challenge.  Warderick Wells is one such area with all around protection and even well maintained mooring balls. We pass our time here hiking, snorkeling, and doing the ever present boat chores, this time making repairs on one of the heads and the dinghy outboard. The setting is spectacular with rays and sharks swimming past our boat and large sand bores uncovering at low tides. 

Phenomenal array of blues looking out from Staniel Cay

A curly tail lizard suns on the rocks at Staniel - its companion actually came up and nipped at my toes

And, it blows like stink. It is a delightful place, but with the passing of the front we decide to leave for Staniel Cay where we hear the supply boat will be delivering a fresh shipment of the ever important fruits and vegetables.  We anchor in the north corner of Big Majors Spot and dinghy into the settlement and Isles General Store.  When we arrive at the store, the lack of dinghies at the dock leaves us suspicious and our concerns are validated when we are told that this week the freighter will not be coming in.  Our fresh fruits and vegetables become some worn out looking apples, a head of cabbage, and one of cauliflower – all which will have to last us another week. 

An unusually calm day at Staniel Cay making an easy trip into the market - if only they had vegies

 

Meanwhile, another front is coming through but it will be weak so we weather the west winds that never exceed 10 knots at the exposed anchorage and spend our time snorkeling the Thunderball Grotto, the site of the filming of the James Bond thriller Thunderball and an oasis of friendly tropical fish and healthy coral, all encased within an island cave. While snorkeling the grotto, I find an I-phone in a waterproof case on the bottom.  We take it into the recently expanded Staniel Cay Yacht Club which is a combination marina and all inclusive resort that is cruiser friendly, hoping to find its owner.  While splurging on “linner” (combination of lunch and dinner) at the bar, a man walks in who closely resembles the picture of the individual on the wallpaper of the phone.  We ask if he has lost his phone and are delighted to find he and his wife are the owners.  They were filming their snorkel through the grotto when they dropped the phone and gave up any hope of ever finding it.  After eating, we take our drinks out on a patio and are joined by several couples vacationing at the resort.  They are full of questions about our lifestyle and journey, but the one that really peaks our interest is whether the “green flash” actually exists and whether we have ever seen one.  With a cloudless view to the west, unobstructed by land, they are not all that uncommon. And, that evening we experience another one.  We hope our new friends also witness it.

Another series of strong fronts is approaching so we scurry north to the Park and the protected mooring field at Cambridge Cay.  Moorings will be in demand for the next week so we feel fortunate to be settled in a secure place, albeit one again without internet or any other amenities. We will remain here for a week while fronts interspersed with an occasional calm day make their way through.  Some days are overcast with west winds approaching 30 knots while other days are pleasant and sunny.   

Bell Rock on the ocean side of Cambridge Cay

Bell Rock and the ocean beach from a hike along the cliffs

The beach on one of the few days without crashing waves

Even our weather guru is saying this is one of the most unsettled periods of weather he has ever seen in the Bahamas.  On the calm days we hike the nearby Cay and snorkel a series of lovely reefs, encountering many varieties of tropical fish, including some very pesky sergeant majors begging for a hand out.  On one reef, the dead elk horn corals we witnessed several years ago are beginning to regenerate which is a hopeful sign. One evening we organize a Happy Hour at a sand island that bares at low tide.  The occupants of over 15 boats in the mooring field and nearby anchorage attend.  It is an interesting assortment of cruisers with circumnavigators to first timers and a variety of nationalities including Americans, Canadians, Germans, and a delightful French family.  We hear a plethora of languages spoken. 

A memorable happy hour at Cambridge Cay

Looking in the distance we see islands owned by the Aga Khan, Johnny Depp, and Luke Perry, but our crew of cruisers may be the most fortunate of all to enjoy a special evening like this. 

Sunset as one of many fronts passes through

And between the pleasant times at Cambridge, it blows like stink.

So our message to those of you in the northlands – please keep your fronts to yourselves; they are keeping us in isolated places and curtailing much of our exploration of the Exumas!   

Hanging Out in Marathon

We have been in Marathon for over a month, but the time seems to have flown by.  Mooring field neighbors observe that we are never on the boat.  With great biking and accessible beaches during the day and a remarkable music scene during the evenings, it is probably an accurate observation. And we are enjoying a tropical climate that propagates a remarkable variety of wildlife.  Pelicans amuse us with their antics, 

Pelicans with interesting reflections in the water

and Ibis graze in the nearby park. Iguanas are proliferating everywhere, to the point there is actually an eradication program to downsize the population.  Dolphins swim in our bow wakes, and the canal into the mooring field dinghy dock has become home to a mother and baby manatee. 

The mother and baby manatees hanging out near the fresh water hose

Some say manatees are beautiful, but I think interesting is a better description of these docile mammals

The high point of our stay in Marathon is the visit of both of our sons and their families.  We found a rental house within dinghy and biking distance of our boat, so accommodations are nothing but plush for our guests. With a pool in the back yard, there is plenty of splashing for both young and old. Baby Isabella took her first swim with a little apprehension at first. 

Isabella seems a little unsure of herself the first day in the pool.

We spent several days with the entire crew sailing the boat, either within Hawk Channel or out to the reef for some snorkeling and swimming, 

Everyone got into swimming and snorkeling at the reef although, if there was an audio feed, you would see that Isabella DID NOT LIKE HER LIFEJACKET!!!

But playing in the cockpit while under sail was a totally different experience

and we enjoyed playing in the sand at beaches near the rental house or at Bahia Honda, a state park on the other end of the Seven Mile Bridge. We even hauled everyone down to Key West for some touring and sunset at Mallory Square with its plethora of street performers.

The highlight of the family’s visit was a day spent at the Dolphin Research Center.  This is a small, low-key research facility just outside Marathon and is nothing like amusement parks such as Sea World.  The dolphins (and some seals) are kept in natural pens that are part of Florida Bay.  The few visitors are free to walk between all the pens.  At times, trainers are working with some of the dolphins 

Several trainers are working simultaneously in one pool

The affection between trainer and trainee is readily apparent

while elsewhere guests have opportunities to interact with the dolphins, and in still other areas, researchers are studying dolphin communication and social development. The staff is very friendly and willingly takes time to describe what they are doing and answer any questions. During our visit grandsons Will and Daniel and their Dad took part in a 45 minute session titled “Play with the Dolphins” where they had the opportunity touch a dolphin, give it commands to do certain behaviors, and play “retrieve” with several of the dolphins.  At the end, the dolphins brought each child a gift of a pebble and a mangrove leaf.   

Everyone gets a chance to pet a dolphin

Will's smile is proof that this was a very special day

While many believe these behaviors are just a result of a reward system, in reality, many of the dolphins don’t even want their food rewards; rather, they are truly playful animals and enjoy interacting with humans. But for me, the special moments were sitting quietly by one of the pools and having one or more dolphins actually seek me out. They will vocalize to the point of engaging you in a conversation. Their intelligence and social skills make dolphins exceptionally interesting animals, and the experience leaves us appreciating even more our encounters with them in the wild.

So…the family has left, the boat has been reprovisioned, and we are saying our “goodbyes” to our many cruising friends who will spend their entire winter here in Marathon. It is difficult to leave such a delightful harbor, but it appears we will have a nice weather window to depart for the Bahamas, and a good weather window is just something you don’t pass up.