Meandering Through Maine – Acadia National Park

With much anticipation, we head to Mt. Desert Island, the home of Acadia National Park.  This is one of our favorite stops of the year.  We spend a night enroute in Mackerel Cove on the northern side of Seal Island.  This is one of those enchanting anchorages that we rarely share with other boats. Our view to the north is of the Acadia mountains and all around us the shoreline is mostly undeveloped.  Seals and loons keep us company while the sun sets with an otherworldly glow.

A placid evening at Mackerel Cove

The next morning we sail a short distance to Northeast Harbor, our favorite entry point to the park.  Acadia is synonymous with John D. Rockefeller Jr. and his descendants.  The carriage trails we enjoy biking were laid out by J. D. Jr. for driving his horse drawn carriages and the hiking trails we traverse were designed and developed by family members and their friends. Over the years the Rockefellers have donated vast tracts of land to the park and this continues today with another portion recently donated in honor of David Rockefeller’s ninetieth birthday.

We tie up to a float and shortly are heading on our first hike, up the steep hill that forms one side of the harbor to the Asticou Terraces 

Overview of Northeast Harbor from one of the Asticou Terraces.

and Thuya Gardens.  We are at the peak of the blooming season,, and the garden is a riot of colors.

Looking across some of the beds.

Some of these lilies are over five feet tall.

Dahlias the size of dinner plates.

The scent of lilies is everywhere.

Our stay in Northeast Harbor flies by fast.  We spend days hiking and biking the carriage trails through this national treasure.  

One of many granite bridges on the carriage trails.

The view from the Around the Mountain Carriage Trail looking over Somes Sound, the only fjord on the east coast.

Certainly at the height of summer the park is crowded, but once we get off the beaten path we encounter few other people.  A favorite ride starts at Jordon Pond, a glacial lake tucked between several towering mountains.  The first several miles are a steep climb on our little folding bikes, but once we cross over the end moraine it is almost all downhill to Bar Harbor.  I often feel like an Ewok flying through a forest as the wooded trail swerves along the shore of Eagle Lake, beside lowland ponds of waterlilies and beaver lodges, and atop the banks of Duck Brook.

Glancing back towards Jordon Pond and the Bubbles from Eagle Lake

Lily pads in a pond along side of the carriage trail.

The bridge over Duck Brook

  

For five years we have attempted to obtain reservations to tour the Abby Rockefeller Gardens in Acadia.  This year we struck gold by applying the day the reservations opened. These are the private gardens of the Rockefeller family and are open for several hours on Thursdays during July and August to a limited number of people.  This year, in celebration of Acadia’s Centennial, several other venues on the property are also open.  We arrive early due to confusion with the bus schedule and stroll a mile up the private lane which is edged by a manicured forest carpeted with perfect moss.  We find out later that grounds keepers use a leaf blower daily on the moss, water daily, and weed frequently.  While we wait for the gardens to open we are allowed to visit the terrace area.  

Looking south from the terrace towards Seal Bay and the Cranberry Islands

For over sixty years the huge Rockefeller mansion, Eyrie, stood at this location.  In the sixties it was razed,  and all that is left is the terrace which has panoramic views of the waters south of Mt. Desert Island. Due to our early arrival, we are the first people to enter the garden via the Spirit Path, a wooded walkway with precisely raked swirls in the gravel and Asian statues, some dating back to the 14^th and 15^th centuries, guarding the way. 

The Spirit Path, edged with a collection of Korean governmental figures, leads to an overview of Long Pond.

The theme continues in many portions of the garden displaying the Rockefellers’ extensive collection of Asian sculpture.  

A guilt bronze Buddah from the 17th century sits atop a stone walkway.

In stark contrast, we wander into the central lawn which is styled after English cutting gardens. 

The Bottle Gates provides view into the shaded Oval Garden

Peering into the Lawn Garden

Beds upon beds of colorful perennials and annuals are meticulously groomed and at the height of their bloom cycle.

The colors are so bright that we need a break and take a hike on the rarely open “Madame’s Trail”, a favorite walk of Abby Rockefeller, which is situated between Long Pond and towering granite cliffs.

Is this collection of mosses natural or have they been cultivated along side the trail?

We return for a late afternoon stroll through the gardens with more filtered lighting.  

And yes, there are frogs in the Frog Pond

It is a remarkable experience – the generosity of the Rockefellers is reflected in their willingness to allow strangers to experience something so personal along with all they have contributed in land and development funds to make this national treasure possible.  And to cap a perfect day, we stop for tea, featuring Acadia’s traditional popovers, at the historic Asticou Inn overlooking the harbor at Northeast. Years ago the Rockefellers and their friends probably did the same after a hike or carriage ride through the park.

Bad weather is coming, so we move to a mooring in nearby Southwest Harbor for a couple of days. 

Southwest Harbor, home to the Hinkley Company, manufacturers of classic sail and motor yacht.  Examples are everywhere in the harbor.

We have been struggling to get internet, and here without the tall cliffs blocking access we catch up on mundane chores and tasks.  With the clearing weather, we move over to the east side of the park and Bar Harbor.  For land based visitors, this is the focal point of the park.  

Flowers at one of the inns that overlook the half mile Harbor Walk.

It is crowded, and if you love t-shirt and fudge shops, this is your place.  We try to avoid town but enjoy the beautiful harbor dotted with small islands. 

Overlooking the harbor at low tide from the Harbor Walk

Our neighbor in the anchorage - this boat once belonged to Alan Bond from Australia and is 210 feet of pristine varnish.

It also provides easy access to other hiking trails including one of our favorites, The Otter Cliff Walk.

For several miles we hike along this spectacular shoreline.

View to the north and Bar Harbor

Dramatic drop offs to the ocean

Another day we arrange to meet up with cruising friends from s/v Magnolia for lunch at the Jordon Pond House.  It is an unusually breezy day, and white caps are forming on the typically calm Jordon Pond.  We are seated at a table on the sloping lawn overlooking the lake and are challenged to keep our meals from flying away while gazing at the gorgeous scenery.  

We have spent ten days exploring and enjoying Mt. Desert Island.

Full moon rise over Bar Island from our boat.

It has been a summer of amazing sunsets.

Sadly, it is time to move on.