Bryan and Beth arrive on a little six seat, two prop airplane after a bit of a white knuckled flight through several squalls.
 |
| One of the large planes of Flamingo Air |
They are happy to be on solid ground, and we are delighted to have them with us for a week in the Exumas. We have the boat at a dock to facilitate moving them and the necessary provisions on for a week of cruising. In the clear water below the boat we can see several large eagle rays along with the ever present nurse sharks.
 |
| Exuberant docked at Staniel Cay Yacht Club - a real luxury for us! |
A quick snorkel at the Thunderball Grotto gives our guests a taste of what is to come. We also take Beth and Bryan to see the famous swimming pigs.
 |
| This guy was REAL interested in Beth until he found out all she had were orange peels |
The welcome dinner is at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club, followed by a little time at the annual Pirate Party. Others have gone all out in pirate garb, and we are furiously checking the crowd for Johnny Depp. Many look like Johnny, but sadly, the real thing has not made an appearance. It’s time to crash in bed after a long day – our guests left their home at 3 am.
The next morning we leave Staniel Cay weaving our way through the many super yachts that have shown up for the holidays, including Steven Speilburg’s 280 foot yacht and another just a fuzz shorter that even has a helicopter on board.
 |
| For some reason they didn't invite us aboard Spielburg's yacht :( |
A 25 mile motor sail brings us to Warderick Wells, the headquarters of the Exuma Land and Sea Park. We have arranged to take a mooring ball in a sheltered location as we will have a strong cold front pass through during the week. Upon arrival, we wind our way through a narrow deep water channel between sand flats to our assigned mooring.
 |
| A windy day at the Warderick Wells anchorage |
The park has minimal facilities – no fresh water, garbage disposal, fuel, or provisions, so we need to be totally self-sufficient. The only buildings on the property are the headquarter office, a home for the Park Warden (head ranger) and a small contingent of the Bahamas Defense Force, and a few small outbuildings which we check out in short order. It is tradition that on their first visit to Warderick Wells cruisers take a piece of driftwood with their boat’s name carved on it and place it atop the highest hill in the park – such treasurers are the only things allowed to be left in the park. In short order we hike to the top of Boo Boo Hill to leave our contribution in the commemorative pile of driftwood.
 |
| Hikers at the top of Boo Boo Hill |
 |
| Our presence commemorated in the Park |
We see many other plaques from previous visitors dating back a number of years, and we recognize many of the boat names. And, why is this location named Boo Boo Hill? Legend has it that a boat was wrecked off the shore of the cay many years ago, and the ghosts of the lost passengers still haunt this location. We have our little ceremony and then pause to survey the spectacular views from the heights before a hike down to the equally spectacular Boo Boo Beach.
Our days in the park are spent snorkeling, hiking, and exploring by dinghy. The reefs sport colorful corals and a variety of fish. We have an opportunity to swim with four huge spotted eagle rays. At one point a 3 foot nurse shark starts swimming with us, curiously glaring at us with beady eyes. Beth and I decide sitting on a nearby beach sounds like a good alternative to snorkeling. And at another site, Beth sees a much larger nurse shark and sets a speed record for climbing the dinghy’s narrow boarding ladder with her fins still on. We still haven’t figured out how that could be accomplished. We have a wreck of a burned out boat just below our mooring and even that has some impressive fish making it home. Our hiking takes us along paths running through arid landscapes and palm groves stunted by the ever present winds.
The cratered limestone has sharp ridges interspersed with pockets of sand; exquisite beaches with their powder soft sand are tucked in between cliffs and rocky coastline. One section of the east coast has caves and blow holes carved into the rock by the wave action. We enjoy hearing the roar of the waves within these structures and seeing the occasional bursts of mist exploding from the blow holes.
 |
| Crashing waves on Exuma Sound coast |
New Year’s Eve is upon us and with it, an invitation from the Park Warden to a party on the beach. Each boat is to supply a snack and its own beverage. We proceed to the beach at sunset to find that the Warden and his wife, along with several of the members of the Defense Force, have cook an entire meal to share with the cruisers, giving us the opportunity to sample some genuine Bahamian dishes such as macaroni and cheese and peas and rice. Hospitality such as this is not uncommon in the Bahamas, and we enjoy chatting with our hosts, especially with the Warden’s nine year old daughter who is visiting from Nassau for the holiday break. The party disperses long before midnight as all the activity and fresh air is taking its toll.
Our last full day at the park is spent weathering a strong cold front. The wind is howling and temperatures have dropped to the point that swimming is no longer inviting. We are seeing the coldest temperatures we have had since northern Florida, but we are safe and comfortable in the boat. In some parts of Florida temps have dropped into the 20’s. Late afternoon everyone feels the need to get off the boat, so we launch the dinghy for a very wet and wild trip to the nearby shore and one last hike – hot showers are a necessity upon returning to the boat.
Our week is over and we have a delightful return sail to Staniel Cay. An early morning dinghy ride takes Beth and Bryan back to the airport. We wade into shore with their luggage and walk a few hundred yards to the airport terminal which is actually just a gazebo.
The ticket agent shows up in a golf cart and processes the passengers via cell phone. The plane arrives and everyone helps the pilot pack the luggage in the small hold. This certainly isn’t JFK!
