Back to Civilization

It is a short hop through dense fog south to Boston.  The channel weaves through outlying islands and shoals.  Our fog horn is blaring, we are motoring at low speed, and our eyes are alternately glued to the radar and squinting through the fog to discern other boats. It is a bit intimidating.  At one point we see a large ferry boat lurking in the fog, not moving, and just outside the channel. On VHF Channel #16 we are hearing a pan-pan for a ferry that ran aground, but we understand them to be off Marblehead, quite a distance away.  Later we find out that the ferry we saw was the one that had run aground, just before we passed by.  Had the location of the ferry been correctly transmitted, we would have been the first rescue vessel on the scene.  On the way into Boston Harbor, Coast Guard vessels, fire boats, and other ferries are speeding past us, and happily all the passengers are safely transported back to Boston.  Later that day, after the tide rises, the humiliated ferry boat limps back to Boston.

Once we get to downtown Boston, the fog has lifted and it is a glorious, blue sky day.  We pick up a mooring ball right off downtown accompanied by our friends from Australia – we are almost in the shadows of the skyscrapers.   

Sunrise at Boston Harbor - our friends' boat is the white one

We have one and one-half days to see all of Boston so our friends are in for a stretch of “power tourism” American style.  We hit the ground running, well, actually walking on the Freedom Trail.  It weaves through the modern city to most of the interesting historical sights. We visit Faneuil Hall, the Old State House, and the Old South Meeting House, all places where the events of the revolution were hatched. John Adams, Benjamin Franklin, Sam Adams, John Hancock, and Paul Revere all walked these halls. The Boston Tea Party was planned at the Old South Meeting House, and the Boston Massacre occurred steps away from the Old State House. 

Old South Meeting House where the Boston Tea Party got its start

We wander through Boston Commons, a park, and on to the Beacon Hill neighborhood which is graced by many restored row houses.  

Gracious Beacon Hill town house

 
 

The next morning we take the dinghies through a lock which controls tides and into the Charles River. It is a five mile motor through placid waters past parks, boat houses and universities that line the shore.   

MIT's Boathouse on the Charles River

We pass MIT and Boston University on our way to Harvard. There is no dinghy dock available so the dinghies are locked to a railing along the shore, and we trample through a weedy area to reach the sidewalk.  With the mud and burrs brushed off, we regain our dignity, and walk onto the grounds of this bastion of higher education.  Harvard Yard is lush and shady and lined with lovely classical brick buildings. 

The Chapel at Harvard University

Although the students have not yet arrived for the fall semester, it is still a beehive of activity.  On the dinghy ride back, we are passed by sculls and pleasure boats – everyone is out enjoying this beautiful late summer day. 

After a quick lunch on the boat, we resume our trek on the Freedom Trail.  Our next destination is Paul Revere’s house, but we manage to get lost in the winding and confusing streets of Boston’s North End.  And the streets are packed.  This is the festival of St. Anthony and St. Lucia in the predominately Italian section of town.  We crowd on to the sidewalks as a parade like procession passes by in the street.  There is a band and a statue of one of the Saints held high and adorned with streamers and many dollars pinned to the statue’s robe and the streamers.  

Festival in Boston's North End

 The parade moves on although we hear the hub-bub long after it is out of sight. We finally find Paul Revere’s home, a well restored building squeezed in between other older homes and shops.  It gives us a sense of what life was like in 18^th century Boston. 

Paul Revere's home

Just down the street is the Old North Church, home of those famous “one if by sea, two if by land” lanterns.  It, too, has been beautifully restored and is still in use as a church today.  

Old North Church

Our final destination takes us across the Charles River to the home of the Constitution, the oldest commissioned ship in the US Navy.   

The Constitution - too big to fit into the picture frame!

Yes, she is still manned by the Navy and just the week before, she hoisted sails for a short journey through Boston Harbor. Recently restored in anticipation of War of 1812 commemorative events, everything in the boat is historically correct and as original as possible.  The only modern additions are electric running lights and electric bilge pumps.   

And those electric bilge pumps? Built by Gorman-Rupp from our home town of Mansfield, Ohio

We go through extensive security to go aboard and are guided by naval personnel. 

We have worn out our Australian friends, but that’s OK as we are spending the next day sailing to Provincetown to await appropriate winds and currents to make the passage through the Cape Cod Canal.  Two days later with favorable winds and currents we have a glorious 85 nm sail to Bristol, Rhode Island in Narragansett Bay. At one point we hit 11 knots, far beyond our calculated hull speed. We have been in Bristol before, but not by boat. Besides its famous Herreshoff Museum which we visited a few years ago, Bristol has a lovely bike path that extends all the way to Providence and a number of attractive restored homes of wealthy sea captains. 

Captain's home in Bristol

We are twiddling our thumbs, first at Bristol and then back at Newport, as there is a threat of hurricanes in our stretch of the Atlantic. This gives us several days to do repairs, provision, do laundry, and enjoy our surroundings.  Bryan and Beth pay us a visit, and we take a scenic hike with them along a point of land east of Newport that is part of the National Park System. 

Beth, Bryan, and Burt hiking amongst the rocks at Sachuest Point

Our anchorage at the entrance to Newport Harbor is the perfect vantage point for viewing the many classic yachts entered in the annual Labor Day Classic Boat Regatta. There are over 50 boats participating in this International Event and at one point they all parade past our bow and through the anchorage area on the way to the reviewing/judging stands. 

The 12-meter American Eagle leading the boat parade with a bagpiper playing on the bow.

We need our sunglasses as the glare off the varnish work is so bright – one appreciates the willingness of others to maintain such beautiful yachts. Outside the harbor and under sail, we see everything from wooden twelve meters, to classic one designs, to ocean worthy large ketches, gaff rigged sloops, and schooners.

Herreshoff designed gaff rigged sloop

 Nearby the race course, restored motor yachts provide a viewing platform for their owners. 

Elegant restored motor launch

So now we wait. What sort of torrential rains will we receive from Issac?  How high will the ocean swells be that Kirk produces?  Where exactly will Leslie’s track be? And another tropical depression named Michael just popped up. Our trip south to the Delaware Bay entrance is about 240 nm of open ocean sailing, and we don’t want any surprises along the way. So…the thumbs keep twiddling.