Sunday, December 16, 2012

Grinding to a Halt


Thanksgiving Day in Vero dawns with blue skies, mild temperatures, and a pleasant breeze.  This is the day we have been long anticipating.  A record number of cruisers and some land based retired cruisers gather at a first class park pavilion near the marina.  We come bearing an amazing array of potluck dishes to accompany the many donated turkeys and hams – it is going to be a memorable feast. We grab the last available table, joined by our Australian friends, Claire and Andrew, another couple we met at the Annapolis Gam in 2011 and see occasionally along the way, and a couple new to cruising.  
Site of our Thanksgiving dinner on the porch overlooking the water

It proves to be an amicable group as we enjoy the feast and chat about all our sailing experiences.  After dinner we are entertained by musicians on the deck and a raffle of items donated to the cruisers’ Thanksgiving by local merchants.  Claire and Andrew are the big winners, with Andrew receiving a gift certificate for a local seafood shop and Claire claiming a harmonica, complete with neck holder.  Now, Claire has never played a harmonica and perhaps never even seen one before.  We laugh to think of their fellow Australians’ reaction – so, American Thanksgiving includes the distribution of harmonicas?!?  But Claire is a diligent student and within a day she has almost mastered When the Saints Go Marching In. 
The happy winners - cover your ears!

At the conclusion of the day, I am “awarded” a plaque emblazoned with “Regulation Basket Weaving” by retiring cruiser and friend Sue Scheidt.  For years Sue has overseen the basketmaking group in Georgetown, Exumas, and she is now passing on that responsibility to me.  I have to question her judgment, though, as all the baskets I made last year resembled modern art since none were the least bit symmetrical. Woe be it to the poor souls I instruct this year, but I’ll give it my best shot. 
Sue, Prue, and the handover of the awesome responsibility


With Thanksgiving over, everyone is busy preparing to leave Vero.  I beg our musician friends, Bentley and Jim from Salty Paws, to play at one more happy hour at the marina on Friday evening.  Despite the last minute arrangements, we have a huge turnout and people stay well beyond dark.  
Bentley, Jim, and friends provide music for happy hour

Tomorrow most will be heading further south, and it will be a long time before a group of cruisers this size will congregate again.

The next morning we grab Claire and Andrew and dinghy over to our favorite breakfast place on the shore.  We have a leisurely meal, take a walk along the boardwalk, and bid them farewell.   
Claire and Andrew on their way to breakfast in their Australian flagged dinghy

They will leave in the afternoon, heading to the Bahamas and then Cuba as soon as possible as their six month visa for the States is about to expire. After sailing with them off and on during the summer and fall, it is likely we will not see them again as their long range plans are to head across the Pacific to Australia.  That is the downside to cruising – the friendships can be wonderful and intense, but they often come to an abrupt end when boats permanently head in different directions.

So, a day later we head down to Stuart, an easy 30 mile motor on the ICW.   After a night on a mooring ball, we pull into a dock at a boatyard that Mack Sails uses for their rigging customers.  We are excited to get started, but they are a bit short handed, and all that is accomplished before we leave for Ohio is measuring the rig.  We hope to return to find the new rigging installed, but what could we have been thinking??  We’re dealing with the marine industry, and rule number one is to allow double the amount of time necessary to complete a project.  And, what else could we have been thinking? Just like Murphy, if anything can go wrong, it will.  Once we return to Stuart, all the rigging goes up easily except for the forestay and furler.  There is some galling between a cover and an interior piece of metal.  That portion of the furler is taken to a machine shop and repaired. When it comes time to reassemble the furler, it doesn’t go together properly.  Of course it is Friday evening and nothing more will be done until Monday morning.  We move from the expensive dock and anchor about a mile away.   
Rainbow while at anchor in Stuart - did I mention it rains at least a little everyday here?

Monday we return to the dock to find out if we had requested a monthly rate, it would have been much cheaper.  They take pity on us and refund us a goodly sum, and now we can stay at the dock for the rest of the month – fine if your plan is to be in Stuart for a month. Somehow Monday the gods are smiling on us and the furler miraculously goes together.  Loose ends are completed and the job with Mack Sails is done and is quite satisfactory. 

But, we’re not done.  Do refer back to rules number one and two. Burt orders a piece of bent stainless to support the solar panels from another source.  It takes over a week for someone to come out to the boat to take measurements.  Once that is complete we wait several more days for the material to arrive, a few more days for someone to get around to bending it, and an extra day before delivery as the owner (who, incidentally, had worked for many years with Micky Rupp of Mansfield renown) has decided to go duck hunting.  When it finally arrives it is three inches too short, so it goes back to the shop for welding and several days later it show up and is installed.  Now that we have a place to put the solar panels, we are ready to order them from a source in Fort Lauderdale.  It will take a day for them to ship to Stuart, we are told. Friday we anxiously wait the arrival of the panels but nothing shows up, and late in the day we give them a call to find out that their computer crashed and all the orders were lost.  Back to square one, and with a weekend intervening, it will take four more days to get the panels. 

Negotiating the monthly dockage plan now seems like a good idea as we will be in Stuart for almost a month. Now, Stuart is not a bad place.  We are at a nice dock with water and power, although it is a boatyard right next to a very active, noisy railroad line. There are no other amenities at the yard, and it is a bit lonely here as virtually all the other boats are uninhabited.  We can bike just about everywhere, including a huge mall area with all the standard stores, an excellent grocery store, a laundromat that is a bit far, and all the attractive shops and restaurants in the restored downtown portion of Stuart.  We long to get back underway, though, and look forward to spending Christmas in Miami if all goes well. We are decked out with solar powered LED lights around the cockpit and a small artificial Christmas tree (with LED lights, also, as power conservation on a sail boat is a big consideration) below decks. But, it just won’t seem like Christmas until we can rejoin our friends in the cruising community. Thus, we have ground to a halt.